La lentezza del ritorno: brasato al Barbera

Solo qualche giorno fa scrivevo che avrei preso una pausa dal blog, che non sapevo quando sarei tornata, ma che speravo sarebbe stato presto. Forse vi stupirà il mio ritorno dopo un così breve periodo, ma in questi giorni ho capito delle cose. Ho capito, grazie ai numerosi messaggi e ai commenti gentili e calorosi di tanti di voi, che in questi mesi devo avervi trasmesso più di quanto immaginassi, e non posso che esserne felice. Ho capito che il cibo e la cucina sono nutrimenti dell’animo, prima ancora che del corpo, e che a volte per riscoprire quel nutrimento bisogna abbandonarsi alla lentezza, alla calma e alla pazienza… e spesso così si ritroverà il gusto perso, o anche solo messo da parte.

In questa mia personale ricerca della lentezza ho scelto di riscoprire un piatto elaborato, che si cucina lentamente, arricchito da mille sapori ed odori… mi sono concessa un brasato, una preparazione tipica di tanti luoghi, ma che ho fatta mia con l’utilizzo di un vino piemontese, una Barbera ricca e corposa. È un piatto che ho imparato a preparare in un recente corso sulle carni, e spero quindi che il procedimento da me seguito sia quello più rigoroso possibile. È una preparazione lenta, che vi permetterà di trascorrere in casa dedicandovi ad altro, perché non sarete risucchiati dalla preparazione stessa, mentre avrete poi a che fare con un piatto finale importante, quasi imponente, un piatto che fa assaporare il profumo delle feste ormai imminenti.

BRASATO AL BARBERA

Ingredienti (per 4-6 persone)

* 1,2 kg di tenerone di bovino o di arrosto della vena (o altro pezzo adatto)

* una grossa costa di sedano

* una grossa carota

* una cipolla

* salvia

* alloro

* rosmarino

* timo

* 1 chiodo di garofano

* 5 bacche di ginepro

* 10 grani di pepe (per me nero)

* garza non medicata

* filo da cucito

* 1,2 l di vino rosso corposo (per me Barbera d’Asti)

* olio extra-vergine d’oliva

* 20 g di funghi secchi (io li ho omessi per problemi di allergie)

* mezzo cucchiaio di concentrato di pomodoro

* brodo di carne o vegetale (non è detto che serva)

* maizena (non è detto che serva)

Procedimento

Mondate carota, cipolla e sedano e tagliateli in pezzi non troppo piccoli; mettete in una garza tutti gli aromi (chiodo di garofano, bacche di ginepro, pepe, rosmarino, salvia, alloro e timo) e fate una sorta di fagottino chiuso con del filo da cucito. Mettete in una pentola o in un contenitore abbastanza capiente il vostro pezzo di carne, aggiungete le verdure e il fagotto di spezie e coprite con il vino rosso. È assolutamente fondamentale che la carne sia perfettamente coperta dal vino (altrimenti marinerà in modo ineguale). Lasciate la carne a marinare per almeno 24 ore in frigorifero.

Scolate quindi verdure e carne dal vino, avendo cura di conservare la marinatura; separate le verdure dalla carne. Mettete a bagno in acqua i funghi secchi (io ho omesso questo passaggio per problemi di allergia, come già detto) e, nel frattempo, fate appassire le verdure in padella con pochissimo olio.

In una pentola capiente (perché dovrà poi contenere la carne, le verdure e la marinatura) fate scaldare dell’olio e sigillate a fuoco vivace la carne, dopo averla salata. Eliminate quindi i grassi di cottura della carne, unite le verdure saltate e deglassate con il vino della marinatura, che va poi aggiunto per intero alla carne. Aggiungete quindi i funghi con la loro acqua, il concentrato di pomodoro e il fagotto di spezie.

Coprite con un coperchio e fate cuocere lentamente, per circa 2 ore e mezza, finché la carne non sarà tenerissima (il tempo dipenderà dal pezzo di carne che avete scelto e dalla sua grandezza). Girate il pezzo di carne di tanto in tanto, e controllate che ci sia sempre sufficiente liquido; se il vino non bastasse, aggiungete del brodo (per me vegetale) o dell’acqua.

Quando la carne sarà cotta, separatela dal fondo di cottura; togliete il fagotto di spezie e frullate il fondo di verdure e vino. Se il composto risulta troppo liquido, legatelo con un po’ di maizena. Tagliate la carne a fettine non troppo sottili (io le ho tagliate con un coltello elettrico) e lasciatele qualche minuto a cuocere insieme alla salsina ottenuta dal fondo di cottura. Servite le fettine ben calde, accompagnate dalla loro salsina e magari da un po’ di polenta.

 

1.117 pensieri su “La lentezza del ritorno: brasato al Barbera

  1. 🙂 sono molto felice che la pausa sia stata breve… 
    Io sono in attesa delle tue ricette quindi non mi lasciare orfana per troppo tempo.  :))
    Ricetta lunga e lenta quella di questo brasato ma scommetto che è squisito

    1. Grazie, Elisa!
      D’ora in poi magari me la prenderò con un po’ più di calma e di filosofia, ma sono tornata…
      Una ricetta molto lunga, ma che dà davvero grandi soddisfazioni al palato!

    1. Ciao Marina.
      Diciamo che la mia pausa sembra più breve dall’esterno, perché per me è iniziata prima del messaggio che la rendeva evidente. È stata breve, ma credo che mi sia servita per capire almeno un po’ il giusto valore da dare alle cose.. poi bisogna vedere di mettere in pratica i propositi e di capire a fondo (ma a fondo a fondo) le cose.
      Un abbraccio

  2. Carissima, anche io sto rallentando il ritmo, sarà la vicinanza delle feste, sarà che sono stanca, insomma me la prendo easy. Questo piatto l’ho preparato qualche anno fa proprio perchè come ho confessato di recente, non so cucinare la carne ed amo solo le lunghe estenuanti cotture. Cosa meglio di un brasato, che ho fatto proprio al Barolo, sacrificando un vino meraviglioso da un piatto egualmente importante. E’ sicuramente una delle ricette che fa grande la nostra tradizione culinaria e tu l’hai onorata splendidamente. Ti abbraccio, Pat 

    1. Io voglio davvero ricominciare a prendere tutto un po’ più easy, perché non posso permettere che ciò che faccio per passione diventi una sorta di ossessione (seppur in senso buono).
      Ho letto della tua propensione per le cotture lunghe, e io ti seguo a ruota.. diciamo che il corso sulle carni è stato proprio per colmare questa lacuna. Ci sarò riuscita? Ai posteri l’ardua sentenza.

  3. bentornata ! non sono solo le tue ricette a mancarci ma sono proprio le parole e i pensieri che le accompagnano a farci compagnia . vai piano ma stai con noi . un abbraccio.
    Patrizia da Alba

    1. Grazie, Patrizia!
      Sono contenta che le mie parole e i pensieri che accompagnano questa avventura in cucina ti facciano compagnia.
      Un abbraccio,

      Giulia

    1. Grazie mille per i tuoi complimenti, Benedetta!
      Ho sbirciato il tuo contest, e ho giusto in programma una ricetta a tema!

      Giulia

  4. Ciao giulietta, mi sono persa la tua crisi e il tuo tentativo di abbandono del blog ma per fortuna nostra ci hai ripensato in breve tempo .Volevo farti i complimenti per l’esecuzione PERFETTA del brasato ,se mi posso permettere di darti un suggerimento io faccio così: rosolo la carne a fuoco vivo ma prima la infarino tutta come se fosse un’enorme scaloppina e uso solo burro e non olio perchè mantiene più morbidezza alla carne.Il burro dovrebbe essere chiarificato ma anche se non lo è non è fondamentale perchè tutto il grasso in cuin si rosola la carne andrebbe buttato , così risulta meno unto e più leggero, per quanto possa esserlo un brasato..
    Se un giorno hai voglia di sacrificare un vino  costosetto prova a fare tutto questo procedimento utilizzando un passito bianco o se sei miliardaria un Sauterne e a servirlo con delle patate americane gratinate con parmigiano e il profumo della cannella.E’ un pò particolare, ma se ti piace il gusto agrodolce è la fine del mondo.Un bacione e non ci LASSIARE!!ciao Franca (Bologna)

    1. Ma no, mia cara, non si è mai trattato di abbandono, al massimo di una pausa… che alla fine si è rivelata essere più breve di quanto pensassi.
      Grazie mille per i tuoi complimenti, sono davvero preziossimi per me! E, se diventassi milionaria, ci proverei eccome a farlo con un passito o un Sauterne.. deve essere delizioso davvero! Adoro questo genere di agrodolce.. ho già l’acquolina!

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