La Gubana sbagliata con zabaione alla šljivovica per l’MTC

L’MTC di questo mese è stato un colpo al cuore.

Perché Mari (aka lasagnapazza) ci parla di strudel, e di Friuli, e per me non poteva che essere un ritorno alle origini, a quella parte del mio sangue che arriva dalla Croazia.

Ma in Croazia lo strudel non si fa. O meglio, sicuramente si prepara (la distanza dal Friuli è così poca che è impensabile una mancata contaminazione), ma non è un dolce tipico: difficilmente lo troverete come dessert in un ristorante e, per essere precisi, difficilmente troverete un dessert nelle carte di una qualsiasi trattoria locale, o gostiona che dir si voglia. La Croazia ha infatti una cucina molto semplice, principalmente basata su cibi cotti alla griglia, soprattutto carni (già qui vi avevo parlato di ćevapčići, ražnjići e pljeskavica, che dominano questa cucina insieme all’immancabile maialetto allo spiedo), ma anche pesci e crostacei (mio grande rammarico è non aver mai assaggiato la granseola).

La verità è che per me lo studel è una ricetta del cuore, è una ricetta di famiglia, ma non è una ricetta di mia nonna, bensì di nonna Norma, la nonna dei miei cugini materni. Lei, friulana di Fiume, l’ha sempre preparata e proposta in tutte le grandi cene di famiglia, e il suo strudel per me è semplicemente LO strudel, che da qualche anno ho finalmente imparato a preparare grazie ad un corso intensivo tenuto da mio zio, suo figlio e unico depositario della ricetta e della tecnica. Quello strudel l’ho imparato sul campo (altro che corsi teorici, tsk) e ora l’ho fatto mio. La ricetta della pasta matta è diversa da quella di Mari, perché la “mia” ha l’uovo, e risulta quindi un po’ meno elastica e un po’ più difficile da stendere, ma è la ricetta del cuore, e al cuor non si comanda. Prima o poi la vedrete, lo giuro.

Però non mi andava di proporre uno strudel classico, e così l’ho contaminato con un altra ricetta storica del Friuli, la gubana, un dolce lievitato con un ripieno ricco di frutta secca e uvette ammollate nel liquore. Un dolce che nessuno nella mia famiglia ha mai preparato tranne me, e di cui mi sono follemente innamorata. La prima volta lo preparai che facevo la quinta elementare (anche se, ora che ci penso, forse preparai un presnitz, dolce triestino simile alla gubana, ma con un guscio di pasta sfoglia), e mi ci dilettai quando tutti, in classe, dovemmo preparare un piatto tipico delle regioni di appartenenza: mi rubarono il Piemonte, mi rubarono la Puglia (del nonno paterno) e la Croazia ovviamente non era contemplata, così ripiegai sul Friuli, ciò che andava più vicino, e così mi ritrovai a preparare questo dolce così ricco e delizioso. L’ho poi rifatta qualche mese fa, con la pasta lievita, ma non c’è due senza tre ed ora eccomi qua.

Ecco quindi la mia gubana sbagliata, un guscio di pasta matta che racchiude qualcosa che amo e qualcosa di me, Croazia compresa (grazie alla šljivovica, il distillato di prugne più diffuso nel Paese).

Strudel - Gubana collage blog

Gubana sbagliata

Di Pubblicata:

  • Resa: 1 gubana sbagliata
  • Preparazione: 30 minuti
  • Cottura: 40 minuti
  • Pronta In: 1 ora 10 minuti

Ingredienti

Istruzioni

  1. Con almeno qualche ora di anticipo, preparate il ripieno. Ammollate per bene l'uvetta nella šljivovica (o in šljivovica e acqua, se preferite). Tritate mandorle, noci, nocciole e pinoli (precedentemente tostati in una noce di burro). Mescolate il trito di frutta secca, l'uvetta strizzata, il suo liquido di macerazione, la scorza di arancia e di limone, lo zucchero, il cucchiaio di miele e il burro fuso, quindi lasciate da parte.
  2. Preparate la pasta: scaldate l’acqua, che deve essere abbastanza calda, ma non bollente. Setacciate la farina in un recipiente, aggiungete il sale e l’olio e versate a mano a mano l’acqua calda, mescolando. Quando la farina avrà assorbito tutta l’acqua, togliete l’impasto dal recipiente e cominciate a lavorarlo con le mani su una spianatoia per un paio di minuti, fino ad ottenere un impasto morbido, quasi appiccicoso ma che comunque non resta attaccato alla spianatoia o alle dita. Mettete l’impasto a riposare, coperto da un panno umido o da una pellicola, per circa mezz’ora.
  3. Trascorso questo tempo, scaldate il forno a 180°C.
  4. Mettete una tovaglia pulita (possibilmente lavata con sapone neutro e ben sciacquata), di lino o di cotone, sopra a un tavolo. Infarinate leggermente la tovaglia, prendete l’impasto e cominciate ad appiattirlo con le mani sopra alla tovaglia, quindi spianatelo aiutandovi con un mattarello. Quando la sfoglia comincerà ad essere abbastanza sottile mettete da parte il mattarello, sollevate la sfoglia dal tavolo aiutandovi con le mani e, tenendola con le nocche nella parte sottostante, cominciate a tirarla verso l’esterno facendola girare ogni tanto e facendo attenzione che non si rompa. La sfoglia deve diventare praticamente trasparente. Riponetela nuovamente sulla tovaglia, dovreste aver ottenuto una sfoglia quadrata di circa cinquanta centimetri per lato. Siccome i bordi saranno rimasti un po’ più spessi, passate con le dita lungo tutta l’estremità della sfoglia tirando la pasta per assottigliarla.
  5. Aggiungete al ripieno precedentemente preparato l'uovo intero, mescolate, quindi disponete il composto sulla sfoglia, lasciando liberi circa due centimetri di bordo su tutti i lati.
  6. A questo punto, aiutandovi con la tovaglia, arrotolate la sfoglia sul lato lungo. Fate un paio di giri, quindi ripiegate i due lati corti verso il ripieno e continuate ad arrotolare fino alla fine.
  7. Riponete la sfoglia in una teglia precedentemente imburrata (o coperta di carta da forno), spennellate la superficie della sfoglia con il burro fuso e mettete a cuocere.
  8. Ci vorranno circa 30/40 minuti, ma siccome la cottura dipende molto dal forno, fate attenzione perché la sfoglia non deve diventare troppo scura bensì deve rimanere dorata. Togliete la teglia dal forno e fate raffreddare lo strudel, quindi spolverizzate con zucchero a velo. Una nota: rispetto al classico strudel, questo non rimane morbido (poiché non ha frutta fresca ad ammorbidire ripieno e pasta), ma piuttosto croccantino.
  9. Quando è il momento di servire, preparate lo zabaione: in una bastardella di acciaio posta sopra una pentola di acqua che bolle, sbattete il tuorlo con lo zucchero utilizzando una frusta, fino ad ottenere un composto spumoso. Aggiungete quindi grappa ed acqua e continuate a sbattere, in modo che il composto risulti spumoso. Servite insieme allo strudel (siate parchi di zabaione, perché è piuttosto forte).

Strudel gubana finale blog

Con questa ricetta partecipo all’MTC n. 36

mtc36

 

 

294 pensieri su “La Gubana sbagliata con zabaione alla šljivovica per l’MTC

  1. che ricettina Giulia!!!! questo si che è un superpost quante cose ci hai svelato! scusa seson passata poco ultimamente, ma detta fuori dai denti è,..un periodo di m! un bacio!

  2. tesoro e tu già in quinta elementare avevi queste magiche intuizioni? … tutto torna e tutto si spiega… un dolce speciale, una contaminazione originale per un risultato sorprendente… sei stata davvero brava e creativa… ma questa non è una novità:* piuttosto una conferma che ho sempre quando ti leggo….
    ps tesoro volevo ringraziarti dell’affetto che mi hai dimostrato… poi magari ti racconto in privato… non è un periodo facile ma sto cercando di farmi forza e andare avanti… ti mando un bacione grande :*

  3. La gubana l’ho assaggiata solo una volta, ma vado pazza per questi ripieni di frutta secca. Sono molto curiosa di vedere la ricetta del tuo strudel di famiglia, mi piacerebbe provare la variante con l’uovo nell’impasto.

  4. Ti ho immaginata alle elementari mentre ti rubavano le regioni… povera Giulia 🙂 Però hai visto che regalo ti hanno fatto? Una professionista della gubana declinata in modo perfetto e siccome sei tu la maestra in questo campo, beh la prima vera gubana che farò sarà la tua. Aspetto che ci regali la ricetta completa, buona giornata mia cara

    1. Tutte le regioni mi rubarono, malefici compagni! Solo io potevo ritrovarmi per le mani un dolce del genere a 10 anni!
      Ancora mi ricordo quel salame tutto arrotolato su se stesso (e pensa che poi ho scoperto da un’amica che in alcuni paesi la gubana viene amichevolmente chiamata come la cacca di bucca, per la sua forma.. non c’è che dire).
      Cercherò una ricetta tradizionale della gubana da proporvi, che qui la si chiede a gran voce.. 🙂

      Buon fine settimana
      Giulia

  5. Slivovica, è bastata una parola per farmi illuminare gli occhi!
    In Croazia la bevevo sempre e me l’ero anche portata a casa! Mi piace moltissimo!
    In più mettici che amo anche la Gubana e che non vedo l’ora di vedere come la fai, uno strudel da mangiare sempre, buono per ogni occasione! Me lo salvo immediatamente Giulia sei troppo forte! :*

    1. Anche a me piace moltissimo la Slivovica, e anche io me la sono riportata indietro dal viaggio in Croazia di questa estate 🙂

      Ora la centellinerò perché duri un po’ (anche se forse conosco un posto dove trovarla, qui a Torino)!

      Dovrò rifare la gubana lievitata presto..me la chiedono in famiglia e l’unica foto di quella vecchia è la foto della “last slice standing” 😀 Magari per Pasqua, visto che la gubana è in realtà un dolce da festa!

      A presto, carissima!
      Giulia

  6. Questa gubana è una meraviglia, però ora io sono curiosissima della ricetta di Nonna Norma!!! Quando c’è l’amore dietro le ricette non possono che essere speciali 🙂

  7. Quanto arricchiscono le origini! Della Croazia so veramente poco e mi piacerebbe un sacco conoscerla meglio. E poi quando una contaminazione entra in un’altra ricetta è sempre una sorpresa quello che ne esce. A volte inimmaginabile.

    Fabio

    1. Ahimè, anche io ne so davvero pochissimo di Croazia, visto che le mie origini si sono perse con la morte prematura di mia nonna. Ho ancora qualche parente in Istria, ma non lo conosco nemmeno.
      Mi è capitato in due o tre occasioni di girare un po’ Istria e Croazia, e di sicuro c’è la loro bellezza naturale, il mare limpido e tanta storia, se solo si ha la pazienza di scavare un po’.

      A presto,
      Giulia

  8. La gubana è un dolce eccezionale e la tua ricetta è molto invitante.
    Ti hi conosciuta grazie alla mappa dell’AIFB, ciaoooo

    1. Grazie mille, Donatella.
      E piacere di conoscerti!

      Devo fare anche io un bel giretto su quella mappa, e spero anche che qualcuno prima o poi mi faccia compagnia in Piemonte, visto che al momento sono sola soletta 😉

      Buon week-end,
      Giulia

  9. Cara Giulia, non sapevo delle tue origini croate e mi fa molto piacere che la ricetta da me proposta sia per te una ricetta del cuore e che quindi questa sia stata l’occasione per rispolverare bei ricordi. La cucina è anche questo 🙂
    Per quanto riguarda lo strudel, mi è capitato più volte di mangiarlo in Croazia, soprattutto in Istria, sia nella versione bollita dolce (lo struklji kuhani) che in quella cotta al forno.
    Questa tua versione mi piace molto, perchè mi piace il ripieno della gubana ma non sopporto di solito l’impasto che lo avvolge quindi in questo modo risolviamo il problema 🙂 E poi trovo ottima l’idea di utilizzare lo šljivovica, sia nel ripieno che nello zabaione.
    Bravissima e grazie per la tua proposta.
    Mari

    1. Mia nonna materna era croata, per la precisione istriana, nata a Galizana (vicino Pola), naturalizzata italiana e poi emigrata in Italia nel periodo successivo alle foibe. Purtroppo però mia nonna è morta giovane e prima che io nascessi, quindi tanto, troppo, delle sue origini e della sua cultura sono andate perse.
      Io sono tornata tre volte in Istria e Croazia e, giuro, non ho mai visto uno strudel, né cotto nè al forno.. sospettavo fosse una mia mancanza, e ora ne ho le prove! E grazie per avermi dato questa conoscenza in più.
      Sono contenta che la mia gubana ti piaccia.. ne ho assaggiate diverse in Friuli, e devo dire che quelle con un impasto ben lievitato, con cura, mi piacciono molto: sono molto aromatiche e ben alveolate, e quasi ricordano un panettone farcito. Altre invece non hanno quel fascino, ecco 😉

      A presto e grazie per la visita (e per il tema del mese),
      Giulia

  10. la cucina italiana e quella europea sono talmente variegate e talmente diverse che già solo avere un albero genealogico variegato, cosa per altro diffusissima, in una zona di migrazioni come la nostra, vale più di un diploma al Cordon Bleu: a maggior ragione se si ha la fortuna (e anche l ‘intelligenza) di poter far tesoro di questi saperi e imparare direttamente dallo zio a tirare la sfoglia dello strudel, così da poter fare quei contronti che aprono la mente e permettono anche di contaminare, con sicurezza, competenza e maestria. Lo zabaione col liquore di prugne è il tassello mancante (e bene ha fatto a raccomandare morigeratezza, perchè mi dà l’idea che sia una di quelle robe che si finiscono solo quando son finite!)
    Adesso però son curiosa di vedere la ricetta dello zio….;-)
    Bravissima!

    1. I tuoi commenti alle ricette dell’MTC sono sempre le perle più rare (parafrasando – a sproposito- un tuo concittadino illustre).
      Non temere, appena mi riprendo da questa full-immersion piena di strudel ve lo propongo, lo strudel di nonna Norma, con una pasta matta più dura da stendere, ma che dà tante soddisfazioni; il ripieno è quello di Mari, “ma bisogna usare le mele brutte, quelle che al mercato manco ti vogliono vendere”.
      Io son piemontese, e qui lo zabaione lo si mangia senza ritegno, lo si fa anche salato, ma questo merita morigeratezza per il suo contenuto alcolico.. giuro, è più efficace della Rinazina 😉

      Grazie mille per la visita e per il commento e sappi che non è finita qui 😀
      Giulia

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