Ceci n’est pas un verre – Cronache di una degustazione

[post premiato nell’edizione 2014 del concorso “Vinitaly Young to Young” indetto da “La Stampa Academy”]

René Magritte l’aveva detto per una pipa, e io lo dico ora, su un bicchiere: “Ceci n’est pas un verre“.

E non perché qui di bicchieri ce ne siano tre (so che qualcuno l’avrà pensato, quindi vi anticipo), ma perché ognuno di questi bicchieri non è solo un bicchiere, e ciò che ognuno di essi contiene non è soltanto un vino.

Ogni bicchiere, ogni vino, infatti, racchiude in sé una storia ed un territorio, la tradizione passata, l’innovazione presente e le aspirazioni future.

Per qualcuno, come Laura Bosio, 33 anni, a capo dell’azienda insieme al fratello Cesare da 15, il vino è una storia di famiglia, che parla soprattutto di nonno Girolamo, il fondatore dell’azienda. Da lui Laura ha preso la passione per il mestiere, da quel nonno che la portava in vigna fin da bambina, che le ha fatto assaggiare il primo sorso di vino,  lo stesso nonno a cui è dedicato il Franciacorta Riserva pas dosé 2006 DOCG.

Bosio collage blog

E basta avvicinare il naso al bicchiere e godere di un primo sorso per capire l’affetto che Laura prova per nonno Girolamo, perché non si può che dedicare un vino del genere per amore, uno di quelli veri. L’uvaggio 70% Pinot Nero e 30% Chardonnay,  i 70 mesi passati sui lieviti e l’assenza di zuccheri aggiunti nel liqueur d’expedition lo rendono un vino importante e corposo; il colore è giallo paglierino, il perlage finissimo e il bouquet elegante, con note speziate e di lieviti e sentori agrumati. Al palato risulta fresco, complesso e strutturato, adatto quindi ad essere consumato a tutto pasto; Laura ne caldeggia l’abbinamento con lo spiedo alla bresciana, un piatto del territorio.

Bosio vino blog

Per Paolo Carpineti, 29 anni, il vino è contatto con la terra, rispetto per essa e per i suoi prodotti, una filosofia assolutamente coerente con la vocazione agricola della sua famiglia, che si tramanda da generazioni. La famiglia vinifica solo dalla scorsa generazione, ma l’approccio è il medesimo, il leit motiv è la parola rispetto, in primis della tradizione: si utilizzano infatti vitigni autoctoni, come il Bellone e il Nero Buono di Cori, si aderisce ai principi dell’agricoltura biologica e si propone di riutilizzare antichi metodi per il lavoro in vigna (recuperando la bestia da soma, nella fattispecie il cavallo). Ma guardare indietro non deve impedire il progresso, e così dai due vitigni autoctoni si sono prodotti vini nuovi, dal metodo classico al rosato, per arrivare al passito.

Il suo Metodo Classico rosato da Nero Buono di Cori è un’assoluta novità, un’anteprima, tanto che la sboccatura viene fatta davanti ai nostri occhi, i soli mezzi una glacette ed un cavatappi. Il suo vino ha il colore dell’oro antico, antico come i colli di Cori, il bouquet è molto fresco, fruttato, con note di agrumi, specialmente cedro e limone. L’abbinamento consigliato da Paolo è con una zuppa di legumi aromatizzata al finocchio selvatico e salvia, un piatto che riporta i sapori schietti e terragni del suo Lazio.

Carpineti collage blog

 

Carpineti vino blog

Per Simone Benelli, 39 anni, il vino ha il sapore di un cambiamento di rotta, di un sogno realizzato. Lui, farmacista della provincia di Mantova, ad un certo punto si è saputo enologo ed ha inseguito quell’aspirazione, dapprima studiando, e poi producendo vino in Abruzzo, da uve autoctone, Montepulciano, Trebbiano e Pecorino.

La prima vinificazione è del 2011, e la sua azienda, Ausonia, porta il nome di una farfalla molto comune nella zona (oltre ad essere il nome che gli antichi Greci davano all’Italia centrale). Anche tutti i suoi vini portano il nome di farfalle, un omaggio al padre, collezionista di questi insetti e primo a credere ed ad investire nell’impresa del figlio.

Ausonia blog

Il suo Abruzzo Pecorino Machaon DOC ha un color giallo paglierino con riflessi dorati; al naso è fresco, floreale, con note di frutta matura e frutti tropicali, alla bocca è deciso, sapido, persistente. L’abbinamento perfetto secondo Simone è con un piatto di scampi cucinati ed aromatizzati in un modo semplice,  con qualche rametto di rosmarino.

Ausonia vino blog

Non è sempre semplice capire che un bicchiere nasconde tutto questo; nel mio caso, da non addetta ai lavori, è necessaria una degustazione guidata, qualcuno che mi prenda per mano e mi faccia annusare oltre il mio naso, guardare oltre il bicchiere ed ascoltare le storie del vino dalla viva voce di chi lo produce.

La postazione di degustazione blog

Per questo devo dire grazie a Vinitaly, a La Stampa e all’AIFB per questa occasione, e ai due maestri di cerimonia, Paolo Massobrio e Marco Gatti.

E che non vi venga mai più in mente di dire che un bicchiere è solo un bicchiere.

Foto di gruppo

 

521 pensieri su “Ceci n’est pas un verre – Cronache di una degustazione

  1. Sono ammirata: un post splendido! Si legge con piacere, è diretto e con un taglio davvero personale. Bravissima Giulia. Davvero. Un bel bacione. Pat

    1. Grazie, Patty!
      Sono molto contenta che il pezzo ti sia piaciuto.. speravo che si leggesse il mio entusiasmo per la degustazione, e sono felice che sia stato così!
      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

    1. Grazie, Roberta!
      Ormai ho deciso che da qui in poi mi metterò in gioco più spesso.. anche perché altrimenti non c’è modo di vedere di che pasta sono fatta 😀

      Un abbraccio e grazie per il tuo commento,
      Giulia

  2. Brava Giulia, sapevo di poter trovare nelle tue parole la perfetta sintesi di questa esperienza. Ho apprezzato l’appunto sull’abbinamento, mai scontato quando si parla di vino. Bravà!

    1. Grazie, Marina!
      Sono molto contenta che il pezzo sia piaciuto e che sia riuscita a mantenere quella dote di sintesi che tanto spesso mi sono sentita riconoscere in passato.
      Gli abbinamenti sono stati un consiglio finale da parte dei tre produttori e devo dire che in qualche caso mi hanno abbastanza stupito, quindi li ho riportati con piacere 🙂

      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

  3. Molto bello.. Affascinante la tua metafora iniziale e bella la conclusione che la riprende. Bravissima Giulia, complimenti 🙂

    1. Grazie, Cinzia.
      Sono andata a ripescare gli insegnamenti liceali: se si mette una massima in incipit, meglio ricordarla alla fine (che, si sa, il lettore è per lo più distratto).
      Sono molto contenta che il pezzo ti sia piaciuto.
      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

  4. Un bicchiere non è MAI solo un bicchiere… e tu lo hai colto sicuramente! Da non addetta ai lavori ad altra non addetta….. chapeau!
    Nora

    1. Grazie mille, Nora.
      Sono contenta che la mia massima iniziale sia passata.. e davvero non guarderò mai più un bicchiere allo stesso modo.

      A presto,
      Giulia

  5. Complimenti per il post madamina Giulia ! E sopratutto per il coraggio…un motivo ci sarà ! Un bacio, Marina.

    1. Grazie, Marina.
      Non sai quanto mi dia soddisfazione che il mio pezzo sia piaciuto a tante di voi, e che abbia trasmesso qualcosa, nonostante non sia un’addetta ai lavori 🙂

      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

  6. I miei complimenti per questo post Giulia, per la passione, il taglio giornalistico che hai dato a questo post, per le nozioni che sono venute fuori, per la passione con cui ce le hai raccontate. Io sono astemia e non bevo, ma dentro questo post c’è un cuore che batte e non lascia indifferenti nemmeno chi come me non saprebbe riconoscere un tavernello da un barolo… brava:*

    1. Grazie mille, Simona.
      Per il tuo commento e per i tuoi complimenti al mio pezzo.
      Io sono tutto meno che un’addetta ai lavori sul mondo del vino, ma il vino mi piace, e mi piacerebbe molto capirci un po’ di più.
      Sono molto felice che questa passione si sia letta nel mio pezzo.

      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

  7. Grazie a te , Giulia, per aver raccontato così bene quello che si nasconde dietro un “semplice” vino e, da ignorante in materia, ti dico che mi è venuta la voglia di provare a cercare questi vini per assaggiarli e capirli.
    razie e complimenti per la bella esperienza

    1. Grazie a te, Loredana.
      Per il commento e per questo bel complimento, di averti messo la voglia di assaggiare questi vini.
      Sarebbero contenti anche i produttori, mi sa 😉

      Un abbraccio,
      Giulia

  8. Bello il tuo articolo!!!
    E mi piacciono pure i collage di foto!!! :))
    Io mi sono dimenticata di mettere i link alle cantine, che pirla che sono!!!! 😀

    1. Grazie Fede.. e sai che anche a me è piaciuto il tuo.. mi piacciono i post scritti col cuore!
      E vabbé, i link non sono poi gran cosa.. 🙂

  9. Complimenti! bellissimo articolo! ceci n’est pas un verre, la frase di inizio è fantastica, mi ha attirata in maniera irresistibile e devo dire che ho trovato tutto molto ben scritto e interessante! bravissima mi sei piaciuta un sacco! e bellissime anche le foto!!

  10. Accidenti, meno male che non sei ” un’addetta ai lavori “! A mio modo di vedere è un articolo preciso, tecnicamente valido e soprattutto molto piacevole. Complimenti!

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