Di viaggi verso nord e di pancakes all’inglese

Le mie vacanze verso nord (dopo quelle verso il profondo sud) sono finite ormai da un po’, ma ho avuto la fortuna di potermi concedere una settimana di villeggiatura a casa in compagnia di vecchi e nuovi amici, fra gite fuori porta, girule per Torino e provincia ed ottime (ed abbondanti, e troppe) cene. Ora si ritorna lentamente alla normalità, e ho finalmente anche il tempo per riordinare le idee e le suggestioni raccolte durante un’intensissima settimana di vacanza fra Francia ed Inghilterra via terra e mare (fingiamo che la mancanza della componente “aria” sia solo dovuta al fascino innegabile del viaggio in sé, e non anche al fatto che  un certo qualcuno a me vicino detesti volare).

L’accoglienza mattutina delle bianche scogliere di Dover (che vedete un po’ più in su) è un’esperienza di cui godere almeno una volta della vita, nonostante il vento gelido ed il mare arrabbiato (e la gente che, sfidando la sua rabbia, era in grado di ingurgitare salsiccia e fagioli alle 6,40 del mattino). Dover è una piccola cittadina assai gradevole e molto british, in cui è piacevole passeggiare per un paio d’ore. Se avete a disposizione un po’ di tempo in più (e non avete a carico due enormi zaini ad impedirvelo) potete sempre pensare di visitare il museo della città, in cui vedere la nave dell’età del bronzo (considerata la più antica al mondo) oppure visitare la casa dipinta romana.

Canterbury è però tutt’altro: oltre alla magnificenza (soprattutto esterna, fatemelo dire) della sua famosissima cattedrale, è una città molto viva, piena di gente, di musica per le strade, di ragazzi che vendono consigli, di locali e negozi, ed è una città molto verde. Se potete, quindi, godetevi almeno un giretto fra le sue strade pulite e curate, ma se il tempo vi assiste non dimenticate un bel giro lungo il fiume Great Stour, da cui godere di un verde visto solo in Gran Bretagna e di una pace che pare quasi irreale. Non so se me ne sia auto-convinta, ma ho trovato che la vegetazione incontrata lungo il fiume fosse assai preraffaellita, e alcuni scorci di questo fiume mi hanno catapultato dritta dritta nell’Ophelia di Millais.

Gli imperdibili a Canterbury: se siete in cerca di una sistemazione poco pretenziosa e davvero carina, con personale gentilissimo e spazi comuni a disposizione (salone con tv, libri e pc sempre aperto, utilizzo cucina e giardino all’inglese davvero delizioso) andate al Kipps e non rimarrete delusi. In serata, invece ( e andate presto se volete anche mangiare, visto che in settimana la cucina chiude alle 8), non perdetevi una birra a The Foundry Brew Pub. Stra-consigliata la Itzamna, una stout dall’alto tenore alcolico e con sentori di caffè e cioccolato, una delle migliori birre che io abbia mai assaggiato.

Canterbury blog

Dopo una giornata passata a Canterbury, il viaggio è proseguito verso la meta principale, Londra, che io non avevo mai visitato. Ovviamente è impossibile dire di aver visitato appieno Londra in due settimane, figurarsi in quattro giorni, ma posso davvero dirmi soddisfatta per essere riuscita a vedere tanto di quello che avrei voluto, e persino qualcosa in più. Di Londra non lascio un racconto, ma delle suggestioni, per immagini e in “poche” parole, con qualche consiglio che spero vi sarà utile per un futuro viaggio.

I luoghi-simbolo di Londra, gli imprescindibili, quelli da vedere almeno una volta, almeno da fuori. Quasi tutti (tutti quelli in foto, ma anche altri) sono sul Tamigi, e vi consiglio caldamente un bel giro a piedi sulle sue rive: più economico del battello, e permette di fare tutto secondo i vostri tempi. Metteteci anche che adoro camminare, e avete la ricetta perfetta.

Londra simboli blog

La Londra moderna, quella di vetro e acciaio, di ponti nuovi, ruote panoramiche e grattacieli. Una modernità a cui le capitali d’Europa e gli USA ci hanno ormai abituato, ma che per me sono sempre il simbolo di un’alterità affascinante rispetto all’Italia.

Londra modernità blog

Londra e i suoi parchi, giganteschi, verdissimi, rigogliosi, a tratti fin selvaggi, ricchi di corsi d’acqua, laghi e di tanti, tantissimi animali, dagli immancabili scoiattoli ai volatili di ogni specie.

Hyde Park, una tappa londinese irrinunciabile.

Londra Hyde Park blog

St. James Park, da cui vi consiglio di passare per arrivare a Buckingham Palace (non che a me interessasse particolarmente il palazzo.. giusto uno sguardo e via)

Londra St. James Park blog

Londra e i suoi teatri. Tanti me  lo avevano detto: andare a Londra è vedere uno spettacolo teatrale, e devo dar loro ragione. Un’esperienza che vi consiglio, tanto più che si ha davvero l’imbarazzo della scelta fra spettacoli, concerti e soprattutto musical. Io ho scelto di vedere Let it be al Garrick Theatre, un musical-concerto che ripercorre tutta la carriera musicale dei Fab Four, uno spettacolo davvero coinvolgente con musicisti eccezionali.

Londra Let it be blog

Non allego foto, ma non perdete la Londra dei musei: potete scegliere quel che vi interessa di più, dai gioielli, all’arte applicata, a quella figurativa, all’archeologia. Io ho visitato il British Museum, che pur non ho amato moltissimo (per le folla e l’organizzazione museale un po’ caotica, ma ha pezzi bellissimi ed importanti; imperdibile i fregi del Partenone -anche se visti con un po’ di magone-, e i reperti di Sutton Hoo, per respirare un po’ di antica Inghilterra, ma se avete un po’ di tempo non perdetevi tanti reperti orientali, romani ed un bella dose di Egitto -ma se volete per quello fate anche una gita nella mia Torino), la National Gallery (che vi consiglio di visitare per la parte pittorica, anche se ammetto di aver affrettato il passo su una buona fetta di ‘700 e ‘800 inglese, non troppo nelle mie corde). Amore totale e a prima vista per la Tate Modern, una tappa a cui non avrei rinunciato per nulla al mondo. Tantissimi altri musei mi aspettano ancora, vorrà solo dire che devo ritornare.

Londra e i suoi “mercatini” vintage o delle pulci, come Portobello Road (che non ho amato moltissimo, per i prezzi irraggiungibili e le folle oceaniche) e Camden Town, dove potete facilmente trovare un giubbotto di pelle a 10£ o 20£ (momento di gioia e gaudio della vacanza) o una sala da the nel seminterrato, The Basement Tea Room, consigliatissima per l’ambiente easy ed accogliente e per i prezzi bassi.

Londra Camden blog

La East London, quella per me inattesa, dell’Old Spitalfield Market e di Brick Lane con la sua matrioska di mercati, i suoi mille street food, i suoi murales e i suoi barbieri clandestini.

Londra inattesa blog

La Londra dei mercati alimentari, come Borough Market, con i suoi innumerevoli cibi da strada e le sue specialità alimentari tipiche (fudge, toffee, scones, pani tipici, cornish pastries, pannocchie e chi più ne ha più ne metta) e dal mondo.

Londra Borough Market blog

O il Covent Garden Market, il salotto buono, con delizie alimentari da mangiare qui ed ora (dalla paella al panino con l’anatra confit), oppure da portar via, come qualche prezioso the o degli eccellenti curd.

Londra Covent Garden blog

La Londra del cibo, quello che è sempre e ovunque, a qualsiasi ora e in qualsiasi luogo, quello locale e quello internazionale, il cibo da strada e i ristoranti chic. Io, a rappresentanza del cibo locale scelgo il Fish & Chips (che non avevo mai mangiato nella sua terra natia e che mi è piaciuto da morire) mangiato da Poppies a Camden Town; ma non mi sono certo fatta mancare English breakfast (mangiata a pranzo, con una birra, ché l’abbinamento fagioli/the ancora non lo reggo), porridge (di cui mi sono follemente innamorata), carrot cake, scones, cornish pie e tanto, forse troppo the (rigorosamente Earl Grey).

Londra fish & chips blog

Il ritorno verso casa ha previsto una tappa parigina, breve ma intensa. Mi sono fatta riconquistare dalla bellezza decadente del Père Lachaise, senza l’ansia di andar a cercare questa o quella tomba, ma gironzolando qui e là senza dimenticare i tanti morti senza nome che si celano in quel meraviglioso cimitero.

Parigi Pere Lachese blog

E poi, complici i numerosi posti che un certo qualcuno non aveva mai visto, un giro veloce Champs Elysèes-Arco di Trionfo-Montmartre-Notre Dame-Quartiere Latino (e poi morte civile) con camembert grigliato al miele e crème brulée finale.

Parigi blog
Insomma, un viaggio breve ma intenso, pieno di cose da vedere-provare-visitare-gustare-amare, che per la prima volta mi ha fatto approdare oltre Manica e che mi ha lasciato la voglia di tornare e magari di assaporare qualche luogo più bucolico e diverso da una Londra che mi è piaciuta, in cui sicuramente tornerò, ma che non mi ha rapito del tutto il cuore.

Alla fine di questo lunghissimo post vi lascio con la ricetta dei pancakes, che avevo letto qualche tempo fa su un libro di cucina britannica di cui onestamente non ricordo il titolo. Diversi dai pancakes al latticello già proposti in passato, facilissimi da fare, veloci e buonissimi, la coccola perfetta per la colazione della domenica.

Pancakes blog

Pancakes

Di Pubblicata:

  • Resa: 8-10 pancakes
  • Preparazione: 10 minuti
  • Cottura: 20 minuti
  • Pronta In: 30 minuti

Ingredienti

Istruzioni

  1. In una terrina mescolate gli elementi solidi (farina, zucchero, lievito, sale), mentre in un'altra quelli liquidi (latte, uova, burro).
  2. Unite gli elementi liquidi a quelli solidi e mescolate, non troppo accuratamente (non è un problema se rimarranno dei grumi).
  3. Scaldate un padellino antiaderente unto con pochissimo burro; una volta ben caldo, versate meno di un mestolo di impasto, distribuitelo nel padellino e fate cuocere qualche minuto a fuoco non troppo altro, fin quando sulla superficie non si formeranno delle bolle.
  4. Girate il pancake e fate cuocere anche l'altro lato.
  5. Proseguite fino ad esaurimento dell'impasto e formate una torre con i pancakes già cotti, che coprirete con uno strofinaccio per tenerli caldi.
  6. Servite accompagnando con sciroppo d'acero, frutta fresca, marmellata, miele o creme spalmabili a piacimento.

Pancakes2 blog

661 pensieri su “Di viaggi verso nord e di pancakes all’inglese

  1. Avete fatto davvero un gran bel giro! Affascinanti le scogliere, mi piacerebbe un sacco vederle!
    Molto carina anche Canterbury!
    Londra direi che l’avete visitata abbastanza, altroché! Sempre meravigliosa.
    E poi anche la tappa parigina con le sue immortali bellezze.
    Bravissima!

    Fabio

  2. Bellissima vacanza. di quelle che piacciono a me 🙂 Fish&Chips mangiato in Irlanda tanti anni fa, non so perché non l’ho mai riproposto… Anch’io non sono ancora stata a Londra e la anelo da anni, prima o poi ce la farò! Quanto a Parigi, mi hai fatto venire una gran voglia di tornarci… I pancakes invece sono diventati da qualche tempo a questa parte la colazione del week end.

  3. Mi piace il tuo modo di viaggiare cara mia: un po’ per musei, un po’ per strada, un po’ per mercati e soprattutto mangiando tutto quello che, di tipico, ha da offrire il posto!
    E poi in comune abbiamo anche “l’incredibile fortuna” del viaggio via mare e terra per via della paura di volare dei nostri consorti! Il mio, tra l’altro, è proprio estremista: il ferro non vola quindi non prendo l’aereo! 😀
    Bellissimo report!!!!

  4. Davvero un bel giro, non c’è che dire! E concordo anche sulla scelta dei mezzi di trasporto: anch’io ho una paura tremenda dell’aereo, anche se alla fine ogni anno mi lascio convincere e cedo, con gran pena del mio compagno che deve sopportare le mie scenate pietose mentre siamo in volo.

    A presto

  5. Davvero un bel giro e bel post, non è per niente semplice condensare tante emozioni e cose viste. Londra conquista con il tempo, io l’ho odiata profondamente, ci ho vissuto per sei mesi ed ora ne ho una grande nostalgia. Vorrei un columbia flower market sotto casa così come i tanti caffé stupendi che sono a giro per la città. Canterbury non l’ho visitata ma le tue parole mi hanno incuriosito. un bacione, Chiara

  6. Ma dai??? Non siamo gli unici ad essere andati a Londra via terra e mare con tappa a Parigi??? Fantastico! Lo abbiamo fatto qualche anno fa ma in treno, con brivido del tunnel sotto la Manica compreso, ci hanno dato tutti dei pazzi, abbiamo finto che facesse parte del fascino del viaggio in sè come dici tu 🙂 ma la realtà è ben altra purtroppo e la colpa è mia quindi capisco perfettamente il tuo lui (ma forse lo sapevi già visto che a Cagliari l’anno scorso siamo venuti in macchina :))
    Comunque mi hai fatto venire di tornare a Londra, è una delle città che più mi piace al mondo.
    P.S. non capirò mai come fare a commentare sul tuo blog, non me lo consente, mi dice che ho già un account, boh…

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