Un classico di casa – La panissa vercellese

Il risotto più famoso del Piemonte è indubbiamente la panissapaniscia, che esiste in due fondamentali versioni, che differiscono fra loro per localizzazione geografica, ingredienti utilizzati e, aspetto forse più evidente, per denominazione: la paniscia è novarese, mentre la panissa è vercellese.

 Che sia chiaro, i due piatti si somigliano assai, dal momento che gli elementi essenziali ed irrinunciabili rimangono gli stessi: il riso, i fagioli e il salam d’la duja, un salame a grana piuttosto grossa e a pasta morbida (molto simile nell’aspetto al cotechino) che prende il suo nome dal contenitore in terracotta in cui veniva fatto maturare, rigorosamente sotto strutto (una tecnica di conservazione utilizzata in passato nelle zone più umide del Piemonte, dove il clima non permetteva la stagionatura tradizionale dei salumi all’aria).

Le somiglianze ci sono, abbiamo detto, ma altrettante (se non di più) sono le differenze fra questi due piatti tradizionali. Nella paniscia novarese, infatti, si utilizzano i fagioli borlotti, il riso è di qualità Arborio, Carnaroli o Roma, oltre al salam d’la duja si trovano anche le cotiche di maiale e sono inoltre presenti ortaggi come sedano, carota e cavolo verza. La panissa vercellese prevede l’utilizzo di riso Arborio, Baldo o Maratelli, di fagioli di Saluggia, ma la lista degli ingredienti si ferma poco oltre.

 Chiaramente ogni famiglia ha la sua versione, con differenze più o meno marcate rispetto a questa semplicistica suddivisione che ho appena tracciato, ma che mi era utile per delineare i contorni della mia ricetta della panissa vercellese, davanti a cui non posso che stendere due mani belle aperte.

 Prima. Nulla di me è vercellese (almeno che io sappia), quindi non pretendo di dettare la verità sulla panissa, né posso dire che questa sia una ricetta tradizionale tout court, tramandata cioè di nonna in nipote nei secoli dei secoli amen, anche se pare che la ricetta sia già testimoniata (ed in un pranzo di nozze, mica cose da nulla) nel ‘700, e quindi i tempi tecnici ci sarebbero anche. Ma è davvero una ricetta di famiglia, perché era l’unico piatto che mio nonno materno abbia mai preparato (almeno a mia memoria), rigorosamente una volta l’anno, e perché mia zia ha proseguito la sua tradizione, utilizzando la propria ricetta che, oltre ad essere molto fedele a quella originale, è semplicemente divina, e anch’essa viene (quasi) rigorosamente proposta in famiglia una volta l’anno, d’autunno o d’inverno (ma questo va da sé, visto il piatto). Personalmente, invece, mi arrogo il diritto di dire la mia su questo piatto dopo aver contribuito a prepararne 17 kg (e mi riferisco solo alla quantità di riso) per il cinquantenario della sezione degli alpini dello zio, e credo che questo in materia valga ben più del diploma al Cordon Bleu.

Tutto il merito della ricetta, quindi, va alla zia Daniela, che per la prima volta ha tentato (sotto mia costrizione) di dare delle dosi, seppur indicative, alla preparazione. Si sa, la tradizione va di pari passo con la misurazione ad occhio, ma qui si è fatto uno sforzo di traduzione, e non ce ne vogliate se non sarà preciso al grammo.

 Seconda. Io ve lo dico, pentole in acciaio e fornello possono darvi un buon risultato, ma la ricetta urla pentola di coccio a gran voce, e il piatto che otterrete sarà ben diverso. Se poi invece del fornello avete un putagé (la classica stufa a legna, che in Piemonte prende questo nome), preparate i fazzoletti, perché come direbbe mia mamma, la panissa in questo caso “fa piangere”.

 Panissa collage

La panissa vercellese

Di Pubblicata:

  • Resa: 4 Persone servite
  • Preparazione: 60 minuti
  • Cottura: 30 minuti
  • Pronta In: 1 ora 30 minuti

Ingredienti

Istruzioni

  1. Per prima cosa preparate il brodo, facendo bollire a lungo i fagioli di Saluggia insieme alla cipolla, all'alloro e al piutin precedentemente sbollentato (altrimenti rilascerebbe troppo grasso nel vostro brodo). Dal momento che il piutin (ma anche il cotechino) è assai saporito, io vi consiglio di assaggiare il brodo prima di aggiungere il sale.
  2. Preparate un battuto di lardo, che farete soffriggere insieme alla cipolla tritata e al salam d'la duja (o salame morbido, o cotechino) tritato, fino a doratura. Aggiungete quindi due cucchiai di salsa di pomodoro.
  3. Unite ora il riso e fatelo tostare per qualche minuto, quindi aggiungete via via il brodo di fagioli, come fareste per un normale risotto, mescolando frequentemente.
  4. Durante la cottura abbiate cura di aggiungere non più della metà dei fagioli contenuti nel vostro brodo, poiché tenderanno a sfaldarsi, mentre a voi servirà una parte degli stessi da aggiungere intera a fine cottura.
  5. A fine cottura, mantecate con un bicchiere di vino rosso corposo e aggiungete i restanti fagioli del brodo, che così daranno colore e sostanza al vostro piatto finito. Assaggiate e quindi aggiustate di sale e di pepe.
  6. Ça va sans dire, ma guai a chi mangia la panissa bevendo acqua. Il vino è d'obbligo, di rigore rosso, e pure corposo, ché la struttura del piatto lo chiama a gran voce.

DOWNLOAD THE ENGLISH RECIPE (PDF) BY CLICKING HERE

Panissa finale

 

244 pensieri su “Un classico di casa – La panissa vercellese

  1. Giulia che ricordi e che golosità assoluta questa panissa… Lo sai vero che mio marito è piemontese? Lui è fagioli + cipolla dipendente 😀 un motivo ci sarà… cresciuto con questo delizie…. mi appunto la tua ricetta doc e appena possibile la replico… gli faccio una sorpresa 😀

  2. Ussignùr! L’altro giorno ho ritirato in macelleria quattro piedini di maiale per il sarto… Per rimanere in tema MTC… Parlando di cose serie: io conoscevo la panissa con ricetta novarese, figuriamoci! Già mangiata e amata ma mai provata, s’ha da fare! 🙂

  3. E’ una ricetta gustosissima, un piatto unico che ti porta in paradiso per la sua bontà: adoro fagioli e cipolle, specie quelle rosse di Tropea!!

  4. Ed io che di questo risotto non ne ho mai sentito parlare?!?! Proprio io che di riso vado matta… male, molto male!
    Lo immagino un piatto perfetto per gli inverni canadesi, quando fa talmente freddo che vorresti anche tu essere messo sotto strutto insieme al salame!!! Viste le scarse possibilità che ho di trovare questo salame qui a Montreal, cosa mi consigli come sostituto???
    p.s il bara birth l’ho fatto (con un po’ di cioccolato), peccato solo che non avevo avvertito mio marito di non toccarlo… sono tornata a casa ne aveva mangiata più della metà!!! Ma ci é piaciuto così tanto che credo replicherò molto presto!

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