Un classico di casa – La panissa vercellese

Il risotto più famoso del Piemonte è indubbiamente la panissapaniscia, che esiste in due fondamentali versioni, che differiscono fra loro per localizzazione geografica, ingredienti utilizzati e, aspetto forse più evidente, per denominazione: la paniscia è novarese, mentre la panissa è vercellese.

 Che sia chiaro, i due piatti si somigliano assai, dal momento che gli elementi essenziali ed irrinunciabili rimangono gli stessi: il riso, i fagioli e il salam d’la duja, un salame a grana piuttosto grossa e a pasta morbida (molto simile nell’aspetto al cotechino) che prende il suo nome dal contenitore in terracotta in cui veniva fatto maturare, rigorosamente sotto strutto (una tecnica di conservazione utilizzata in passato nelle zone più umide del Piemonte, dove il clima non permetteva la stagionatura tradizionale dei salumi all’aria).

Le somiglianze ci sono, abbiamo detto, ma altrettante (se non di più) sono le differenze fra questi due piatti tradizionali. Nella paniscia novarese, infatti, si utilizzano i fagioli borlotti, il riso è di qualità Arborio, Carnaroli o Roma, oltre al salam d’la duja si trovano anche le cotiche di maiale e sono inoltre presenti ortaggi come sedano, carota e cavolo verza. La panissa vercellese prevede l’utilizzo di riso Arborio, Baldo o Maratelli, di fagioli di Saluggia, ma la lista degli ingredienti si ferma poco oltre.

 Chiaramente ogni famiglia ha la sua versione, con differenze più o meno marcate rispetto a questa semplicistica suddivisione che ho appena tracciato, ma che mi era utile per delineare i contorni della mia ricetta della panissa vercellese, davanti a cui non posso che stendere due mani belle aperte.

 Prima. Nulla di me è vercellese (almeno che io sappia), quindi non pretendo di dettare la verità sulla panissa, né posso dire che questa sia una ricetta tradizionale tout court, tramandata cioè di nonna in nipote nei secoli dei secoli amen, anche se pare che la ricetta sia già testimoniata (ed in un pranzo di nozze, mica cose da nulla) nel ‘700, e quindi i tempi tecnici ci sarebbero anche. Ma è davvero una ricetta di famiglia, perché era l’unico piatto che mio nonno materno abbia mai preparato (almeno a mia memoria), rigorosamente una volta l’anno, e perché mia zia ha proseguito la sua tradizione, utilizzando la propria ricetta che, oltre ad essere molto fedele a quella originale, è semplicemente divina, e anch’essa viene (quasi) rigorosamente proposta in famiglia una volta l’anno, d’autunno o d’inverno (ma questo va da sé, visto il piatto). Personalmente, invece, mi arrogo il diritto di dire la mia su questo piatto dopo aver contribuito a prepararne 17 kg (e mi riferisco solo alla quantità di riso) per il cinquantenario della sezione degli alpini dello zio, e credo che questo in materia valga ben più del diploma al Cordon Bleu.

Tutto il merito della ricetta, quindi, va alla zia Daniela, che per la prima volta ha tentato (sotto mia costrizione) di dare delle dosi, seppur indicative, alla preparazione. Si sa, la tradizione va di pari passo con la misurazione ad occhio, ma qui si è fatto uno sforzo di traduzione, e non ce ne vogliate se non sarà preciso al grammo.

 Seconda. Io ve lo dico, pentole in acciaio e fornello possono darvi un buon risultato, ma la ricetta urla pentola di coccio a gran voce, e il piatto che otterrete sarà ben diverso. Se poi invece del fornello avete un putagé (la classica stufa a legna, che in Piemonte prende questo nome), preparate i fazzoletti, perché come direbbe mia mamma, la panissa in questo caso “fa piangere”.

 Panissa collage

La panissa vercellese

Di Pubblicata:

  • Resa: 4 Persone servite
  • Preparazione: 60 minuti
  • Cottura: 30 minuti
  • Pronta In: 1 ora 30 minuti

Ingredienti

Istruzioni

  1. Per prima cosa preparate il brodo, facendo bollire a lungo i fagioli di Saluggia insieme alla cipolla, all'alloro e al piutin precedentemente sbollentato (altrimenti rilascerebbe troppo grasso nel vostro brodo). Dal momento che il piutin (ma anche il cotechino) è assai saporito, io vi consiglio di assaggiare il brodo prima di aggiungere il sale.
  2. Preparate un battuto di lardo, che farete soffriggere insieme alla cipolla tritata e al salam d'la duja (o salame morbido, o cotechino) tritato, fino a doratura. Aggiungete quindi due cucchiai di salsa di pomodoro.
  3. Unite ora il riso e fatelo tostare per qualche minuto, quindi aggiungete via via il brodo di fagioli, come fareste per un normale risotto, mescolando frequentemente.
  4. Durante la cottura abbiate cura di aggiungere non più della metà dei fagioli contenuti nel vostro brodo, poiché tenderanno a sfaldarsi, mentre a voi servirà una parte degli stessi da aggiungere intera a fine cottura.
  5. A fine cottura, mantecate con un bicchiere di vino rosso corposo e aggiungete i restanti fagioli del brodo, che così daranno colore e sostanza al vostro piatto finito. Assaggiate e quindi aggiustate di sale e di pepe.
  6. Ça va sans dire, ma guai a chi mangia la panissa bevendo acqua. Il vino è d'obbligo, di rigore rosso, e pure corposo, ché la struttura del piatto lo chiama a gran voce.

DOWNLOAD THE ENGLISH RECIPE (PDF) BY CLICKING HERE

Panissa finale

 

379 pensieri su “Un classico di casa – La panissa vercellese

  1. Giulia che ricordi e che golosità assoluta questa panissa… Lo sai vero che mio marito è piemontese? Lui è fagioli + cipolla dipendente 😀 un motivo ci sarà… cresciuto con questo delizie…. mi appunto la tua ricetta doc e appena possibile la replico… gli faccio una sorpresa 😀

  2. Ussignùr! L’altro giorno ho ritirato in macelleria quattro piedini di maiale per il sarto… Per rimanere in tema MTC… Parlando di cose serie: io conoscevo la panissa con ricetta novarese, figuriamoci! Già mangiata e amata ma mai provata, s’ha da fare! 🙂

  3. E’ una ricetta gustosissima, un piatto unico che ti porta in paradiso per la sua bontà: adoro fagioli e cipolle, specie quelle rosse di Tropea!!

  4. Ed io che di questo risotto non ne ho mai sentito parlare?!?! Proprio io che di riso vado matta… male, molto male!
    Lo immagino un piatto perfetto per gli inverni canadesi, quando fa talmente freddo che vorresti anche tu essere messo sotto strutto insieme al salame!!! Viste le scarse possibilità che ho di trovare questo salame qui a Montreal, cosa mi consigli come sostituto???
    p.s il bara birth l’ho fatto (con un po’ di cioccolato), peccato solo che non avevo avvertito mio marito di non toccarlo… sono tornata a casa ne aveva mangiata più della metà!!! Ma ci é piaciuto così tanto che credo replicherò molto presto!

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  167. Traveling is fascinating and could be a excellent time for you or one of the biggest head aches you are going to at any time deal with or even done right. Continue reading for a few wonderful ideas on how to traveling wise and deal with every one of the little things that if you don’t, will create wishing you stayed property. When traveling in countries around the world with unsafe faucet water, bear in mind other methods that you might be uncovered. Near your mouth while using the shower area and clean your pearly whites simply with treated drinking water. If one makes tea or espresso with the drinking water, give it time to boil for many minutes or so before steeping. A good modest visibility could make you very unwell. If you are gathering repeated flier miles from the travels, observe the terms of use for all those miles. Most of the time, the mls expire just twelve to 18 several weeks following they’ve been earned, or they may basically be utilized on a number of times and also to a limited group of spots. Prior to selecting an flight depending on mls, understand the restrictions. For worldwide vacation, examining the foreign potential materials which will be available is critical. Most contemporary tourists rely on having their personal gadgets offered everywhere they go. Charging you up these tools can provide a challenge because power links are not standardized around the world. A little bit of analysis ahead of time will teach the experienced visitor what sort of energy adapters to purchase and what preparations to help make. Require a very good guide together with you to see when traveling. If you always have one thing exciting to complete, you will certainly be unlikely to have irritated or bored to tears throughout layovers and other time setbacks which can be outside your handle. Invest in a new label which you have been wanting to go through allowing you to have some thing to look forward to. To help make probably the most of vacation in foreign countries, make an effort to prepare at least a few routines that aren’t placed in traveler guide publications or blogs and forums. This can be done by getting hold of info intended for and produced by natives, whether it is from newspapers, blogs or individuals on twitter. Moving away from tourist bubble can make your journey much much more exciting and exciting. When traveling with a puppy, keep in mind that most family pet items are much better bought on your vacation spot. As an example, except if your pet is over a specific diet program, getting a bag of pet food if you appear is easier than trying to move it. Dishes and other materials are the same way. When you are touring, put money into money storage containers you could wear inside of your apparel or sew simple pockets to the inside your midsection music band. If you can not sew, request someone who can to get it done for you or bring it into a customize or seamstress, and request they sew an on the inside budget for you personally. This will keep your belongings, id and funds secure so you do not need to concern yourself with somebody stealing your journey handbag or budget. Seeing that you’ve obtained several of the basics on traveling, inform your employer you are taking a getaway, obtain your airplane ticket, boat solution or what ever signifies you intend on getting and go! Always be secure whether travelling by itself or perhaps not. Ask for recommendations and support if you require it. Most people will never mouthful. Especially, Happy expectation is often the first step in making a new travel strategy. Great advice gleaned from other people is certain to get your on the right track. This helps there is a getaway you typically dreamed of.

  168. Journey could mean the exhilaration of experiencing new locations or the nightmare of lacking the convenience and protection of residence. Like anything, vacation will go a lot more smoothly with some expertise and preparation. Keep reading for some noise advice from experienced tourists on making your journeys pleasant memories. Prior to going on a journey, check around for ideas from friends and relations. See who has been there prior to and what they’d recommend either you visit or steer clear of. Are there particular eating places, sights, or explains need to see? You can even take a look at sites on the internet that offer guidance from fellow travelers. When packaging, make sure you split up your valuable items. Should you be packing multiple totes for a getaway, distribute your more expensive goods out between the two. Always prevent adding all your valuable items in one bag in the event that this handbag is misplaced or robbed. Losing just one single handbag continues to be dreadful but might not exactly ruin your journey. Focus on your intution when traveling. If your certain shop, particular person, or neighborhood provides you with “poor vibes”, just leave. Your intuition could possibly be telling you something that you haven’t consciously discovered. Even if you’re improper, it’s easier to be secure than sorry with regards to your safety. If you’re likely to be vacationing soon, don’t proceed through a tour operator. You’ll discover your journey pricing double the amount. Instead, research prices on the internet by way of diverse discount dealers like expedia.com or travelocity.com. This will help save cash that may be much better put in if you get to your location, perhaps on gifts, or perhaps for that great gentleman on the web that offered you this idea. If you’re understanding of the scent of cleaners (or just don’t like them!) attempt taking some tiny candle lights along with you on your own trip. This will help to mask the smell from the cleaning solutions the maids use as well as the smells can also help unwind you. Some smells may also sooth you and provide a greater night’s sleep. When you keep to the helpful tips in the following paragraphs, you will find that travelling lacks to get demanding. There are lots of simple ways to make certain all things are cared for before leaving, which means your time out and about are often more soothing than you can think of.

  169. No matter whether you happen to be traveling to a nearby place for the saturday and sunday or getting a full week-extended location trip, you will be going to benefit from many ways and ideas on how to create the entire approach, more enjoyable and less nerve-racking. Please read on for all those ideas plus more. If you are a lady vacationing abroad, always make sure that your handbag is properly sealed or zipped. If it is probable, use a handbag that is not effortlessly opened, a treadmill which has a difficult clasp. In international nations, several select-pocketers focus on unsuspecting tourists which are not cautious making use of their luggage. Issues could be plucked through your purse in a matter of seconds. Secure your case to keep your individual goods risk-free. Ensure that your cell phone program is with a nationwide phoning put in place before leaving city. When you are typically on a local or local plan, transitioning into a national prepare, even just to the small amount of time you will be eliminated, can keep you from getting charged for roaming or cross country. Help make your suitcases bright and apparent. Try to avoid having hand bags that are 1 matte color and merge because of the other bits of luggage in the airport terminal. Having uncommon-looking suitcases is likely to make your handbag simpler to spot and can deter thieves from stealing it inside a busy international airport. Remain mindful of your possessions all the time when you are vacationing. For those who have a handbag with you, ensure that it stays in close proximity to your body all the time. Also stay away from pocketbooks that happen to be very easily established by other people with a hectic road or subway. Consider this stuff into account when looking for a trusted journey travelling bag. Making traveling agreements properly ahead of time will allow you to cut costs. Although there are several stuff you’ll are interested to buy while on a trip, these items have anything in common. Should you get them faster, they’ll be cheaper. When you don’t retail outlet at the last minute, it is possible to expand your traveling much more. Anyone aboard an aircraft, train or ship, has something in popular, they may have all paid for the opportunity to be there. Some travellers seem to be happier than others, although. These are the basic intelligent tourists, who definitely have made an attempt to set up their traveling plans for maximum ease and economic climate. A little bit training can assist you to join their stands and journey by using a laugh.

  170. Touring has strange attributes. It might be for business, pleasure plus a whole host of other items. Whether you journey for enterprise or delight, though, it is possible to probable reap the benefits of some smart advice about the subject. There are many suggestions on this page that can help you while you are touring. Rather than exchanging $ $ $ $ for the currency exchange of the country that you are vacationing, work with an Atm machine. Many times these banking institutions offer exchange prices that are better than folks get. The amount may vary nonetheless, this can save you a lot of money. Always know where your travel luggage is. Flight and coach staff members are already seen to grab goods out of instances while they are inspected in. Additionally, other travellers may “unintentionally” pick up your travelling bag in hopes of locating high-priced products. And also this lets you transfer involving transit options speedier, instead of ranking about waiting for your travel luggage. Be adaptable. In case your journey schedules could be tweaked by a couple of days, try using the “flexible dates” function of many on the internet traveling search engines like yahoo. This allows you to search departure and give back dates within a presented variety. Just by altering your times by a couple of days, you may be able to score big financial savings on plane tickets. If you’re planning on taking a cell phone together with you on your own getaway, be sure to get in touch with your cell phone provider to inquire them about roaming charges. The familiarity of the cell phone may possibly cause you to feel much better, but it may cost you a lot more to apply it to international soil. An effective substitute is purchasing a neighborhood Simulator greeting card and using it although you’re there. Try to keep every item you will need in a handbag while this might appear extremely hard, it could be completed when you are mindful in regards to what you consist of. Preparing gently implies that you have less issues for you personally to take care of, and be concerned about, when you are experiencing your trip. As said before at the start of this short article, journey can be irritating, but regardless if you are the first-timer or a veteran tourist, the journey recommendations given in this article will help you get through your upcoming vacation with small anxiety. By thinking ahead and maintaining these pointers under consideration, you will get every one of the equipment for stress-free of charge vacation.

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