L’antipasto è una cosa seria – Il vitello tonnato per il Calendario del Cibo Italiano

Oggi nel Calendario del cibo italiano AIFB è la Giornata Nazionale del Vitello Tonnato, di cui è ambasciatrice Antonella del blog Cucino Io.

La ricorrenza mi ha solo fornito l’occasione di proporre uno degli antipasti che vanno per la maggiore in casa mia. E non lo dico con leggerezza, perchè in Piemonte l’antipasto è una cosa seria, ma seria davvero.

Non so se vi sia mai capitato di mangiar fuori per un pranzo o una cena importante in Piemonte, ancor più se in ristoranti o osterie di campagna. Ecco, se vi è capitato, saprete benissimo che il numero medio degli antipasti proposti è superiore alla decina: c’è la carne cruda, i tomini elettrici o al verde, l’albese, l’insalata russa, la lingua al verde, i peperoni con la bagna caoda, i flan di verdure e il vitello tonnato. E ho detto solo i primi che mi sono venuti in mente.

Non è la prima volta che lo dico, ma si potrebbe davvero fare (e senza troppo sforzo) una cena piemontese solo a base di antipasti!

In casa mia, però,  ce ne sono alcuni che occupano un posto speciale nella “hall of fame” (dove fame si legge all’italiana) degli antipasti e, non a caso (vista una certa “fissa” dell’uomo di casa con la maionese) si tratta di insalata russa e vitello tonnato.

Lo so, molti puristi inorridiranno a sentir pronunciare “vitello tonnato” e “maionese” nella stessa frase, visto che il “tonnato” del nome, almeno in origine, probabilmente nulla aveva a che fare col tonno, e figurarsi con la maionese. Infatti “tonnato” o “tonnè” pare provenga dal francese “tanné“, ovvero “acconciato“, forse un espediente linguistico per conferire un’aura di nobiltà ad un piatto invece popolare (in cui la carne veniva cotta a lungo per ottenere morbidezza); alcuni, però, ipotizzano che il tonno abbia giocato un suo ruolo nell’etimologia della parola, perché stava ad indicare che il vitello “veniva cotto come un tonno”. Non so se sia vero o no, o se l’utilizzo del tonno nella ricetta sia stato in qualche modo “causato” da questo equivoco linguistico, ma sta di fatto che ad un certo punto della storia di questo piatto le acciughe utilizzate in origine lasciarono il posto al tonno e sempre più spesso comparvero le uova, dapprima sotto forma di tuorli e poi, più prosaicamente, sotto forma di maionese.

La versione con la maionese è infatti ormai sdoganata da tempo e posso tranquillamente dire che è la più diffusa, ben più delle altre quattro versioni attestate: quella calda con salsa di acciughe, quella fredda con salsa tonnata senza uova e quella con tuorli sodi, senza contare la versione in cui tonno e vitello vengono cotti insieme.

Anche per quanto riguarda la cottura della carne, ce n’è per tutti i gusti: c’è chi la fa bollire (tipo… io), anche se è il metodo in cui è più difficile controllare la temperatura, chi la cuoce in forno, chi la fa brasare e, ultimamente, chi la cuoce sotto vuoto a bassa temperatura, forse la tipologia di cottura che permette di ottenere la carne più tenera in assoluto.

Poi, se avete un’affettatrice avrete compito semplice e fette perfette, altrimenti con tanta pazienza e un buon coltello otterrete fettine più spesse, ma ugualmente buone.

Credo di avervi detto tutto.. no, dimenticavo la cosa più importante: non fate mai mancare il pane!

Vitello tonnato

Vitello tonnato

Di Pubblicata:

  • Resa: 8 Persone servite
  • Preparazione: 15 minuti
  • Cottura: 1 ora 30 minuti
  • Pronta In: 1 ora 45 minuti

Ingredienti

Istruzioni

  1. Portate a bollore una capiente pentola di acqua salata con la carota, il sedano e la cipolla mondata. Unite la carne e continuate la cottura, abbassando la fiamma, finchè sia della giusta temperatura al cuore: 49-50°C se lo volete molto rosa 59-60°C per una media cottura 65-70°C perché sia ben cotto
  2. Toglietelo dall'acqua, rimuovete il filo, asciugatelo tamponandolo con carta da cucina, fatelo intiepidire, quindi avvolgetelo in pellicola per alimenti e mettetelo a raffreddare in frigorifero.
  3. Nel frattempo, preparate la maionese: in un mixer, frullate le uova con un pizzico di sale, quindi aggiungete a filo l'olio, sempre frullando, finché non otterrete una maionese densa.
  4. Aggiungete un goccio di succo di limone, i capperi dissalati, il tonno sgocciolato e frullate ancora con la versione pulse (in modo che non venga troppo frullato). Tenete da parte.
  5. Tagliate il vitello ben freddo con l'affettatrice (oppure con un coltello ben affilato, il piú finemente possibile), disponete in un piatto da portata, guarnite con la salsa e decorate con dei capperi.
  6. Servite freddo.

DOWNLOAD THE ENGLISH RECIPE BY CLICKING HERE

Vitello tonnato finale

312 pensieri su “L’antipasto è una cosa seria – Il vitello tonnato per il Calendario del Cibo Italiano

  1. Sono pienamente d’accordo! L’utilizzo della maionese fa ormai parte della ricetta più nota e probabilmente anche la più delicata. Bella ricetta

  2. Un must di casa Calugi durante l’estate anche se a casa nostra non è considerato un antipasto ma un vero e proprio secondo. Il vitello tonnato (oltre che alla canzone di Elio) mi fa sempre venire in mente una mia amica vegetariana che se lo sognava pure di notte. Alla fine dovette cedere al richiamo del vitello tonnato e fare uno sgarro :))))
    un bacio, Chiara

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