Young to young 2.0 – Rossi d’Italia

Questo per me è il secondo anno di Vinitaly, il secondo anno di Young to Young, un’iniziativa lodevole che mette in contatto giovani produttori di vino con giovani comunicatori dell’enogastronomia. Incredibile, però, come l’esperienza sia stata del tutto diversa: mentre lo scorso anno era stata una scoperta, quest’anno è stata una conferma.

E, come se fosse stato fatto apposta per me, i quattro vini che ho potuto degustare oggi sono stati essi stessi delle conferme: quattro vini rossi conosciuti, importanti, corposi, che hanno permesso di fare un piccolo giro d’Italia in quattro bicchieri, certo non esaustivo, ma incredibilmente evocativo.

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Parto da chi ha giocato in casa, da Veronica Adami e la sua Ca’ Pigneto, azienda nata negli anni ’90 in territorio veronese, in una proprietà di 14 ettari (di cui solo 8 coltivati) nel cuore della Valpolicella, producendo i vini più noti di questa terra, Amarone, Ripasso, e Recioto. L’assaggio del suo Amarone, annata 2007, di colore rubino e dai sentori di marasca, noci e spezie e di incredibile persistenza ha colpito nel segno, tenendomi letteramente incollata al bicchiere.

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Con grande piacere ho trovato in questa degustazione anche una cantina del mio amato Piemonte, l’Azienda Agricola La Barbatella, sita a Nizza Monferrato, nel territorio dell’Alto Monferrato. La cantina, resa celebre dal precedente proprietario, Angelo Sonvico, è stata rilevata da Cinzia e Lorenzo Perego, imprenditori brianzoli, e da Simone Virgara, laureato in scienze politiche e illuminato sulla via di Damasco dall’amore per la terra e per il vino. Con ancora maggiore piacere, ci ha fatto assaggiare un Barbera d’Asti Vigna dell’angelo del 2011, non filtrato e imbottigliato dopo 8 mesi di acciaio e 1 anno di barrique (non di legno francese). Nel loro vino di colore rubino carico e dai sentori di rosa e ciliegia e dall’acidità tipica della Barbera, si sente la passione per il proprio lavoro, concretizzata in un nuovo modo di lavorare la terra, di stare in vigna. Un vino che insegue la tradizione della grande Barbera e che ha tutte le carte in regola per affermarsi con decisione su un mercato che ha finalmente compreso la grandezza di questo vino.

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L’azienda Podere Concori nasce in una Regione ricchissima per produzioni vitivinicole di grande qualità, la Toscana, ma in una zona universalmente poco nota per la produzione di vino, la Garfagnana, assai più conosciuta per le sue castagne ed il suo farro. Ed è proprio qui che si inserisce l’attività del Podere, dal 1999 in mano a Gabriele da Prato che ha intrapreso questa attività sulle orme del padre per continuarne l’opera, mosso da un obiettivo nobile ed importante, quello di recuperare l’immagine dei vini della Garfagnana e della Valle del Serchio, riportandoli allo stesso livello dei vini toscani più noti. I metodi di coltivazione delle vigna sono nuovi ed antichi insieme, improntati sì all’evoluzione ed al cambiamento, ma nell’ottica della biodinamica, tesa al rispetto assoluto della terra, dei suoi ritmi e delle sue armonie. Nella produzione di vini eroici che sfruttano i terrazzamenti sull’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, le sue parole d’ordine sono rispetto per la stagionalità, invecchiamento in cantina, fermentazione naturale, sostenibilità attraverso la qualità. Della sua produzione abbiamo assaggiato un Melograno 2012, un blend di syrah dell’azienda, vino di grande eleganza. Di colore rubino vivo, al naso ha sentori floreale, con note di frutta russa, mentre al palato emerge la sua complessità, in un’ottima corrispondenza naso bocca.

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Siamo poi scesi in Abruzzo, sulle colline teramane dove, a breve distanza dal Gran Sasso e dal mare, si trova l’Azienda Agricola San Lorenzo, azienda vinicola famigliare nata alla fine del XIX secolo ed ora giunta alla quarta generazione, che si mantiene in equilibrio sul filo della tradizione, pur innovando le tecniche ed i metodi, per esempio impiegando lieviti naturali in fase fermentativa, applicando il controllo completo della temperatura durante tutto il processo di vinificazione e ricorrendo alla criomacerazione per ottenere risultati d’eccellenza. In degustazione l’Escol (nome eassai originale, tratto da un passo biblico), un Montepulciano d’Abruzzo annata 2009, di colore rosso fitto, con sentori di liquirizia e ciliegia e dalla speziatura elegante, caldo e persistente al palato.

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Un giro d’Italia in quattro bicchieri, ognuno capace di farsi interprete dell’identità del territorio che lo ha prodotto.

Anche quest’anno un ringraziamento d’obbligo ai due maestri di cerimonia, Paolo Massobrio e Marco Gatti, capaci di guidarci con mano sicura in questa degustazione,  in una selva che ogni volta mi pare un pochino meno oscura.

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