Il Salone del Gusto di Torino e Terra Madre è ormai vicinissimo, l’attesa è ormai agli sgoccioli per questa prima edizione di Salone diffuso, che cioè interesserà tutta Torino, occupando numerosi spazi cittadini. Ad esempio, Piazzale Valdo Fusi si trasformerà in Piazza dei Maestri, dove troveranno posto ben 40 Maestri del Gusto, ovvero le realtà più prestigiose dell’enogastronomia di Torino e provincia, nominate ogni due anni dalla Camera di Commercio di Torino (che ne attestano la qualità, grazie anche alle analisi condotte dal suo laboratorio chimico) insieme a Slow Food.
Per onorare i Maestri del Gusto in occasione del Salone, la Camera di Commercio ha promosso un progetto, “Le mani dei Maestri”, per far conoscere al pubblico il lavoro di queste straordinarie persone che, con il lavoro delle proprie mani, tengono alta la bandiera del Piemonte.
I Maestri del Gusto hanno le più diverse attività: sono apicultori, birrai, macellai, cioccolatieri, gelatai, altri hanno aziende agricole o producono formaggi, magari salumi. Alcuni Maestri, invece, usano le proprie mani non per produrre, ma per scegliere il meglio di ciò che il Piemonte e l’Italia producono, per proporlo nelle proprie botteghe, rendendo così un servizio a tutte le persone sensibili al valore edonistico dei prodotti enogastronomici, ma anche al loro valore etico ed economico.
Per questo oggi sono felicissima di parlare di un nuovissimo nominato a Maestro del Gusto, la bottega “Sapori d’Italia” di Torino. Io per prima non conoscevo questa realtà, che pure sta a 10 minuti da casa mia, e mi sono pentita amaramente di non averla scoperta prima, perché non è solo una normale bottega, ma è un luogo magico, in cui chi ama una certa idea di cibo non potrà che sentirsi immediatamente a casa.
Il merito va senz’altro a Rosario Levatino, il titolare del negozio che, nel 2005, non ha dato il via ad un normale esercizio commerciale, ma ha creato un luogo di confronto e di scambio, in cui si va per comprare prodotti particolari, scelti personalmente da lui con certosina attenzione, ma si va anche per chiacchierare di cibo e di vino, per scoprire nuovi prodotti e produttori, e si esce innamorati del suo meraviglioso modo di condurre la sua attività, con amore vero.
La bottega si trova a Torino, in Corso Tassoni, e al suo interno durante l’anno trovano spazio ben 700 prodotti diversi, provenienti da circa 200 fornitori differenti, tutti scelti personalmente da Rosario, che mantiene rapporti diretti con tutte queste aziende. La rotazione fra i prodotti è costante, in modo da dare sempre nuovi stimoli alla sua clientela, che è una componente fondamentale della sua attività.
Lo si capisce passando anche solo qualche ora nel suo negozio, e vedere l’interazione fra Rosario e i suoi clienti: chi passa a riempire qualche pintone di vino, qualcuno entra a comprare per “il solito” prosciutto, altri per qualche acquisto last-minute per salvare la cena e qualcuno richiamato dai nuovi prodotti arrivati in negozio (di cui prontamente si viene avvisati grazie ad un’efficace mailing list, oltre che grazie alla pagina Facebook), ma tutti si fermano a scambiare quattro chiacchiere o per chiedere consigli su una bottiglia di vino.
Si vede subito che il rapporto con la clientela è ben diverso dal comunissimo negoziante-cliente, e questo rapporto diretto si rispecchia anche nelle iniziative intraprese dal negozio, come la costituzione di gruppi di acquisto in alcuni periodi dell’anno per comprare a prezzo più conveniente e da piccoli produttori arance, patate, olio o mele di qualità antiche; per altri prodotti, come il pesce, sono nate collaborazioni con altre iniziative degne di nota, come Fish Box.
La cura che Rosario dedica ai suoi clienti è pari solo a quella dedicata ai prodotti che vende che, come già dicevo, sono scelti uno ad uno personalmente da lui, con una grande attenzione posta ad appoggiare piccole realtà locali, compiendo così una scelta etica, di sostegno ad economie rurali, nella consapevolezza che il prodotto ha un forte legame col territorio. Questo è uno dei fattori che, secondo lui, differenzia i prodotti tipici dai prodotti di alta qualità: mentre questi ultimi si distinguono per le ottime materie prime (una scelta comunque lodevole), i prodotti tipici son altro, e mi porta l’esempio delle paste di meliga.
Ce ne sono di ottime, prodotte nelle giuste valli con ottime farine e ottimo burro, ma magari in un capannone industriale, degli prodotti di alta qualità, insomma. Ma poi ci sono le melighe di Valcasotto, prodotte da un forno in cui a fare i biscotti sono tre generazioni di donne che si sono tramandate gesti e ricette, utilizzando farina locale macinata a pietra in un mulino ad acqua, mentre ad occuparsi della legna da ardere nel forno sono gli uomini della famiglia, quella stessa famiglia che costituisce da sola forse più della metà degli abitanti di quel borgo di pietra che ospita la loro attività. Capite bene che son due cose diverse. E non è un caso che la bottega “Sapori d’Italia” sia un rivenditore autorizzato dei prodotti del Paniere della Provincia di Torino, cioè dei loro prodotti tipici.
L’amore di Rosario per la sua attività si respira in ogni angolo del suo negozio: nella simpatia e professionalità con cui accoglie e guida i suoi clienti, nei prodotti che sceglie di vendere, nella passione con cui racconta dei vini della sua cantina, nei pezzi di artigianato (taglieri, cesti di vimini, ceramiche) che popolano il suo negozio.
“È una sfida”, mi ha detto, “Bisogna alzare l’asticella, far capire che la qualità è fatta di più componenti: non solo quella gastronomica, ma anche quella etica. Dobbiamo diffondere informazioni, per far sì di creare un’economia diversa, un diverso approccio al cibo”. E credo che, grazie a persone come lui e ad attività come la sua, siamo sulla buona strada per riuscirci.
Bottega Sapori d’Italia (gastronomia – enoteca)
Corso Tassoni 59/d, Torino
Telefono: 0117509468
Mail: sapori [punto] ditalia [chiocciola] libero [punto] it
Sito: www.sapori-ditalia.blogspot.
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