Le Mani dei Maestri – La Cantina Orsolani

Orsolani

Il Salone del Gusto di Torino e Terra Madre è ormai qui, e coinvolge e sconvolge la città intera, in questa prima edizione di Salone diffuso fra numerosi spazi cittadini. Piazzale Valdo Fusi si è trasformato nella Piazza dei Maestri, che ospita in questi giorni 40 Maestri del Gusto, ovvero le realtà più prestigiose dell’enogastronomia di Torino e provincia, nominate ogni due anni dalla Camera di Commercio di Torino (che ne attestano la qualità, grazie anche alle analisi condotte dal suo laboratorio chimico) insieme a Slow Food.

Per onorare i Maestri del Gusto in occasione del Salone, la Camera di Commercio ha promosso un progetto, “Le mani dei Maestri”, per far conoscere al pubblico il lavoro di queste straordinarie persone che, con il lavoro delle proprie mani, tengono alta la bandiera del Piemonte.

I Maestri del Gusto hanno le più diverse attività: sono apicultori, macellai, cioccolatieri, gelatai, altri hanno aziende agricole o producono formaggi, magari salumi. Ma, dal momento che il gusto non è solo sinonimo di “cibo”, non potevano certo mancare dei produttori di vino, ancor più parlando di Piemonte.

Ma, quando si parla di Piemonte e di vino, pensiamo tutti alle Langhe, al Roero, e mai a Torino. Forse non tutti sanno che esiste una Strada reale dei vini torinesi, che comprende ben 4 territori di produzione vitivinicola in provincia di Torino: la città stessa con la sua collina, la Val Susa, il Pinerolese ed il Canavese. Ed è proprio nel Canavese, a San Giorgio, che sono andata per incontrare una mia “vecchia conoscenza”, la Cantina Orsolani, con cui avevo collaborato agli albori del blog per creare delle ricette che si abbinassero con i loro vini Erbaluce (questa e questa).

Orsolani insegna

Orsolani cantina

Il destino ha voluto che, quattro anni dopo, fossi proprio io a raccontare la loro storia di Maestri del Gusto, una storia che parte dal 1894, quando Giovanni Orsolani e sua moglie Domenica diedero origine alla “Locanda Aurora“, un luogo di ristoro, ma anche di produzione del vino.

Orsolani capostipite

Da qui in poi, la storia della cantina è una storia di famiglia: ad oggi quattro generazioni di Orsolani si sono succedute, accrescendo le vigne e i locali produttivi rispetto ai primi anni, ma tenendo ferma la spinta all’innovazione e l’attenzione al vitigno autoctono, l’Erbaluce.

Orsolani libro

A raccontarmi di questo vino, ancora così poco conosciuto al di fuori del Piemonte, è Gian Luigi Orsolani, e mi parla di un vino di grande personalità, che deve piacere, ma che quando piace, piace davvero, e per sempre. È un vino forse non per tutti, ma per persone fidate.

Gian Luigi Orsolani

Mi parla con orgoglio della sua cantina, dei suoi vini e della loro storia. Parte da quando i vini non avevano un nome, si chiamavano solo “Erbaluce” o “Barbera” o “Dolcetto”, e nulla più; poi, ad un certo punto si rese necessario battezzare i vini delle diverse cantine, non per un vezzo dei produttori, ma per distinguere una bottiglia dall’altra in un mercato ormai in espansione. E così, dal 1985, l’Erbaluce di Orsolani prese il nome di Rustìa, che in dialetto piemontese significa “arrostita”, un riferimento all’uva dorata, ovvero colpita dai raggi del sole in un vigneto sfogliato, per aumentare la componente zuccherina e donare maggiore morbidezza ad un vino altrimenti caratterizzato da una spiccata acidità.

L’utilizzo di uva più matura si percepisce bene in questo vino, più ricco quindi di precursori degli aromi: ci sono le erbe aromatiche come salvia, alloro e rosmarino, il fruttato della pera, della pesca bianca, dell’albicocca, e la scorza di agrumi quali lime, clementine e pompelmo rosa; con il passare degli anni, poi, sviluppa dei sentori sapidi e minerali, che lo rendono davvero interessante.

Orsolani rustia
La Rustia, Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG

I primi tentativi di spumantizzazione dell’Erbaluce, in casa Orsolani, datano 1968, un’epoca in cui il panorama degli spumanti italiani era dominato da nomi come Gancia o Carpené Malvolti; in quegli anni si pongono le basi innovative per iniziare quel percorso che dalla prima bottiglia porta fino ad oggi, al “Cuvèe Tradizione”, uno spumante DOC senza aggiunta di liqueur d’expedition, un extra-brut di gran carattere.

Orsolani primo spumante
La prima bottiglia di Erbaluce spumante Orsolani
Orsolani spumante
“Cuvèe tradizione”, spumante DOC

È però il passito di Erbaluce Orsolani il prodotto per eccellenza della cantina, quello più amato e che ha ricevuto i maggiori riconoscimenti di settore, ottenendo per 10 anni i 5 grappoli dalla guida Bibenda (sommelier AIS) e i 3 bicchieri Gambero Rosso. Questo eccezionale passito deve molto alle qualità intrinseche dell’uva Erbaluce, uva dalla buccia spessa che appassisce e non ammuffisce: una “uva d’inverno” perfetta per il vino passito, vino considerato pregiato e prezioso già al tempo dei Romani, poiché non mutava in aceto.

Uva erbaluce
Un grappolo di uva Erbaluce, invecchiato 3 anni: gli acini sono appassiti in modo così perfetto da sembrare uvetta.

Fino al 2000 il passito di casa Orsolani si chiamava anch’esso Rustia, per dare evidenza al carattere arrostito, dorato, delle uve; ma il medesimo nome per due vini diversi della stessa cantina ingenerava una certa confusione, così gli si diede il nome Sulé che, a dispetto del suono, nulla ha a che vedere con i raggi del sole. Il sulé in piemontese è il solaio, poiché è lì che finiscono le uve quando sono pronte per diventare passito.

Passito
Foto da qui

La cosa incredibile di questo passito è che non si può confondere con altri, perché in questo vino si riconoscono le medesime qualità già sentite nell’Erbaluce, solo evolute nei profumi e negli aromi: i sentori aromatici di erbe si trasformano in aroma di fieno, il fruttato evolve da una parte nel miele, dall’altro nella frutta disidratata, mentre gli agrumi mutano in aroma di scorza candita.

È davvero incredibile come le caratteristiche dell’Erbaluce tornino in tutti i vini della cantina, un trait d’union che lega bottiglie diverse, figlie della stessa uva: il merito, appunto, è di quella madre comune, un vitigno estremamente tipicizzato, che permette un riconoscimento al primo assaggio, e che è allo stesso tempo un valore identitario fortissimo. L’Erbaluce è l’Erbaluce, e l’Erbaluce di Orsolani è il SUO Erbaluce, figlio di un’uva volutamente disomogenea, che permette di ottenere la denominazione di origine controllata su tre vini completamente diversi, bianco secco, spumante e passito, una condizione irrealizzabile con l’omogeneità ricercata sempre più dalle moderne pratiche agronomiche.

Fatevi un regalo: se non avete mai assaggiato un Erbaluce, provate un bicchiere di Rustìa, di spumante o di Sulé Orsolani, e non potrete rimanere indifferenti.

Se non sapete dove, vi creo anche l’occasione perfetta: durante il Salone del Gusto in San Salvario (così vi porto anche nel cuore pulsante della movida torinese)! All’interno dei locali di Via Baretti, infatti, si svilupperà l’iniziativa Enoteca Diffusa, finalizzata a valorizzare il patrimonio enologico piemontese, con particolare riferimento alla provincia di Torino, proponendo un itinerario degustativo, educativo e culturale alla scoperta delle DOCG e DOC del territorio (Erbaluce di Caluso, Canavese, Carema, Freisa di Chieri, Collina Torinese, Pinerolese e Valsusa).

All’interno dei vari locali, i vini non saranno soltanto degustati e raccontati da esperti e produttori ma diventeranno gli ingredienti principali di originali cocktails, creati sul momento da alcuni dei più quotati bartenders nella miscelazione italiani. Dopo l’epoca della miscelazione futurista degli anni ’30, infatti, i DOCG e DOC torinesi sono la prima realtà vitivinicola a rendersi disponibile a questa sperimentazione. Le etichette protagoniste di Enoteca Diffusa sono state selezionate dalla Camera di commercio di Torino nell’ambito del progetto Torino DOC, in collaborazione con l’Enoteca Regionale dei vini della Provincia di Torino.

enoteca-diffusa

Quindi, esattamente, cosa state aspettando?

Nel caso invece vogliate direttamente recarvi in cantina, ecco le indicazioni

Cantina Orsolani

Via Michele Chiesa, 12
San Giorgio Canavese (TO)
info [chiocciola] orsolani [punto] it
http://www.orsolani.it
 Degustazioni (su prenotazione) dal martedì al sabato
Vendita presso la Cantina : dal Lunedi al Venerdi 9,00 -12,00 / 15,00 -18,00
Sabato 9,00-13,00 / 15,00 -18,00

135 pensieri su “Le Mani dei Maestri – La Cantina Orsolani

  1. I just want to tell you that I am all new to blogging and absolutely enjoyed your blog site. Almost certainly I’m going to bookmark your blog post . You absolutely have superb writings. Thank you for revealing your webpage.

  2. Your article has proven useful to me. It’s very informative and you are obviously very knowledgeable in this area. You have opened my eyes to varying views on this topic with interesting and solid content.

  3. I am the co-founder of JustCBD Store company (justcbdstore.com) and I’m presently trying to expand my wholesale side of business. I am hoping someone at targetdomain can help me . I considered that the most effective way to accomplish this would be to talk to vape companies and cbd stores. I was really hoping if anybody could suggest a dependable web-site where I can buy Vape Shop B2B Marketing List I am currently looking at creativebeartech.com, theeliquidboutique.co.uk and wowitloveithaveit.com. Not sure which one would be the most suitable choice and would appreciate any assistance on this. Or would it be easier for me to scrape my own leads? Suggestions?

  4. Hello! I could have sworn I’ve visited this website before but after looking at some of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Anyhow, I’m definitely delighted I discovered it and I’ll be book-marking it and checking back frequently!

  5. Great blog you’ve got here.. It’s difficult to find excellent writing like yours these days. I honestly appreciate individuals like you! Take care!!

  6. I was extremely pleased to uncover this site. I need to to thank you for ones time due to this fantastic read!! I definitely really liked every part of it and i also have you book-marked to look at new stuff on your web site.

  7. Right here is the perfect blog for anyone who wants to find out about this topic. You understand a whole lot its almost tough to argue with you (not that I personally would want to…HaHa). You definitely put a brand new spin on a subject that has been discussed for ages. Excellent stuff, just great!

  8. I would like to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in penning this website. I’m hoping to check out the same high-grade blog posts by you later on as well. In truth, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my own website now 😉

  9. The next time I read a blog, I hope that it doesn’t fail me just as much as this particular one. I mean, I know it was my choice to read through, however I truly thought you’d have something interesting to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of moaning about something that you could fix if you were not too busy seeking attention.

  10. May I simply say what a relief to discover somebody who genuinely understands what they’re talking about on the internet. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. A lot more people ought to check this out and understand this side of your story. I was surprised you aren’t more popular since you definitely have the gift.

  11. I blog frequently and I genuinely thank you for your information. This article has truly peaked my interest. I am going to book mark your website and keep checking for new information about once a week. I opted in for your Feed too.

  12. A fascinating discussion is worth comment. I do think that you need to write more on this issue, it may not be a taboo subject but generally folks don’t talk about these topics. To the next! Kind regards!!

  13. An outstanding share! I have just forwarded this onto a co-worker who was conducting a little homework on this. And he in fact ordered me lunch simply because I stumbled upon it for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanks for spending time to talk about this topic here on your web page.

  14. Spot on with this write-up, I honestly believe this web site needs much more attention. I’ll probably be returning to see more, thanks for the advice!

  15. A motivating discussion is worth comment. There’s no doubt that that you ought to write more on this subject, it might not be a taboo subject but usually folks don’t talk about these topics. To the next! Many thanks!!

  16. I was extremely pleased to discover this website. I wanted to thank you for your time just for this fantastic read!! I definitely appreciated every bit of it and i also have you book-marked to see new things on your web site.

  17. When I originally left a comment I seem to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and from now on whenever a comment is added I receive 4 emails with the exact same comment. There has to be an easy method you can remove me from that service? Thank you!

  18. An outstanding share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a coworker who was doing a little research on this. And he in fact bought me breakfast due to the fact that I found it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending time to talk about this issue here on your blog.

  19. You’re so interesting! I do not believe I’ve read through something like this before. So wonderful to find another person with a few original thoughts on this subject matter. Really.. thanks for starting this up. This website is one thing that is required on the internet, someone with some originality!

  20. Next time I read a blog, Hopefully it won’t fail me as much as this one. After all, I know it was my choice to read through, however I actually believed you would have something useful to say. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something you could fix if you were not too busy looking for attention.

  21. When I initially left a comment I seem to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I recieve 4 emails with the exact same comment. There has to be a way you can remove me from that service? Many thanks!

  22. After looking over a number of the articles on your web site, I really like your technique of writing a blog. I added it to my bookmark site list and will be checking back in the near future. Please check out my website too and tell me what you think.

  23. I’m amazed, I have to admit. Seldom do I come across a blog that’s equally educative and amusing, and let me tell you, you’ve hit the nail on the head. The problem is something that not enough folks are speaking intelligently about. I am very happy I stumbled across this in my search for something relating to this.

  24. You are so cool! I don’t think I’ve read something like that before. So nice to discover someone with a few genuine thoughts on this subject matter. Seriously.. many thanks for starting this up. This website is something that is required on the web, someone with a bit of originality!

  25. Hello there! This article couldn’t be written any better! Going through this article reminds me of my previous roommate! He constantly kept talking about this. I am going to forward this information to him. Pretty sure he’ll have a very good read. Thanks for sharing!

  26. I’d like to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in writing this site. I am hoping to check out the same high-grade content from you later on as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my very own website now 😉

  27. Good site you have got here.. It’s difficult to find quality writing like yours these days. I honestly appreciate people like you! Take care!!

  28. Spot on with this write-up, I honestly believe that this website needs much more attention. I’ll probably be back again to see more, thanks for the advice!

  29. Spot on with this write-up, I really feel this web site needs a great deal more attention. I’ll probably be returning to read more, thanks for the advice!

  30. Hi, I do think this is an excellent web site. I stumbledupon it 😉 I’m going to revisit once again since I book-marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to help others.

  31. Right here is the right blog for everyone who really wants to find out about this topic. You know a whole lot its almost tough to argue with you (not that I personally would want to…HaHa). You definitely put a fresh spin on a subject which has been discussed for a long time. Excellent stuff, just excellent!

  32. Your style is so unique compared to other folks I’ve read stuff from. Many thanks for posting when you’ve got the opportunity, Guess I will just book mark this page.

  33. Hello, I think your website could be having internet browser compatibility issues. When I look at your web site in Safari, it looks fine however, when opening in IE, it has some overlapping issues. I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Aside from that, wonderful site!

  34. Having read this I believed it was extremely informative. I appreciate you taking the time and energy to put this information together. I once again find myself personally spending a lot of time both reading and commenting. But so what, it was still worthwhile!

  35. An outstanding share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a colleague who has been doing a little homework on this. And he actually ordered me dinner because I found it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thank YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending some time to discuss this matter here on your web site.

  36. You’re so interesting! I don’t believe I’ve truly read through anything like this before. So nice to find someone with genuine thoughts on this topic. Really.. thank you for starting this up. This site is one thing that’s needed on the internet, someone with some originality!

  37. After I initially left a comment I appear to have clicked on the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get 4 emails with the same comment. Is there a means you can remove me from that service? Cheers!

  38. After going over a handful of the blog articles on your site, I honestly appreciate your way of blogging. I added it to my bookmark site list and will be checking back in the near future. Please visit my website as well and tell me your opinion.

  39. Having read this I believed it was very informative. I appreciate you spending some time and effort to put this article together. I once again find myself personally spending way too much time both reading and posting comments. But so what, it was still worth it!

  40. When I initially left a comment I seem to have clicked on the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I recieve four emails with the same comment. Is there a means you are able to remove me from that service? Appreciate it!

  41. Your style is really unique compared to other people I have read stuff from. I appreciate you for posting when you’ve got the opportunity, Guess I’ll just book mark this site.

  42. I’m amazed, I have to admit. Rarely do I come across a blog that’s both equally educative and amusing, and without a doubt, you have hit the nail on the head. The issue is something not enough people are speaking intelligently about. I am very happy I found this during my search for something concerning this.

  43. Hi, I do think this is an excellent web site. I stumbledupon it 😉 I am going to come back yet again since i have saved as a favorite it. Money and freedom is the greatest way to change, may you be rich and continue to guide others.

  44. Everything is very open with a precise clarification of the issues. It was truly informative. Your website is useful. Thank you for sharing!

  45. I was very pleased to discover this web site. I want to to thank you for ones time due to this wonderful read!! I definitely really liked every bit of it and i also have you saved as a favorite to check out new things on your blog.

  46. I blog quite often and I truly thank you for your information. The article has truly peaked my interest. I’m going to book mark your site and keep checking for new details about once a week. I subscribed to your Feed as well.

  47. You are so interesting! I do not think I’ve truly read a single thing like this before. So good to discover someone with some original thoughts on this subject. Really.. thank you for starting this up. This web site is one thing that’s needed on the internet, someone with a bit of originality!

  48. I was pretty pleased to find this site. I want to to thank you for your time for this particularly fantastic read!! I definitely really liked every bit of it and i also have you saved to fav to check out new information on your web site.

  49. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a colleague who had been conducting a little research on this. And he actually bought me lunch due to the fact that I discovered it for him… lol. So let me reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending time to discuss this topic here on your web page.

  50. I must thank you for the efforts you’ve put in penning this website. I really hope to see the same high-grade content by you later on as well. In truth, your creative writing abilities has encouraged me to get my own, personal website now 😉

  51. I’d like to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in penning this site. I am hoping to view the same high-grade blog posts from you later on as well. In truth, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my own, personal blog now 😉

  52. After looking into a number of the blog articles on your web page, I seriously appreciate your technique of blogging. I book marked it to my bookmark webpage list and will be checking back in the near future. Take a look at my web site too and let me know what you think.

  53. Hi, I do think your blog may be having web browser compatibility problems. Whenever I take a look at your site in Safari, it looks fine however when opening in IE, it has some overlapping issues. I just wanted to provide you with a quick heads up! Aside from that, wonderful site!

  54. It’s perfect time to make some plans for the future and it is time to be happy. I’ve read this post and if I could I wish to suggest you few interesting things or tips. Maybe you can write next articles referring to this article. I wish to read more things about it!

Lascia un commento

Il tuo indirizzo email non sarà pubblicato. I campi obbligatori sono contrassegnati *

Connect with Facebook