Il Salone del Gusto di Torino e Terra Madre è ormai qui, e coinvolge e sconvolge la città intera, in questa prima edizione di Salone diffuso fra numerosi spazi cittadini. Piazzale Valdo Fusi si è trasformato nella Piazza dei Maestri, che ospita in questi giorni 40 Maestri del Gusto, ovvero le realtà più prestigiose dell’enogastronomia di Torino e provincia, nominate ogni due anni dalla Camera di Commercio di Torino (che ne attestano la qualità, grazie anche alle analisi condotte dal suo laboratorio chimico) insieme a Slow Food.
Per onorare i Maestri del Gusto in occasione del Salone, la Camera di Commercio ha promosso un progetto, “Le mani dei Maestri”, per far conoscere al pubblico il lavoro di queste straordinarie persone che, con il lavoro delle proprie mani, tengono alta la bandiera del Piemonte.
I Maestri del Gusto hanno le più diverse attività: sono apicultori, macellai, cioccolatieri, gelatai, altri hanno aziende agricole o producono formaggi, magari salumi. Ma, dal momento che il gusto non è solo sinonimo di “cibo”, non potevano certo mancare dei produttori di vino, ancor più parlando di Piemonte.
Ma, quando si parla di Piemonte e di vino, pensiamo tutti alle Langhe, al Roero, e mai a Torino. Forse non tutti sanno che esiste una “Strada reale dei vini torinesi“, che comprende ben 4 territori di produzione vitivinicola in provincia di Torino: la città stessa con la sua collina, la Val Susa, il Pinerolese ed il Canavese. Ed è proprio nel Canavese, a San Giorgio, che sono andata per incontrare una mia “vecchia conoscenza”, la Cantina Orsolani, con cui avevo collaborato agli albori del blog per creare delle ricette che si abbinassero con i loro vini Erbaluce (questa e questa).
Il destino ha voluto che, quattro anni dopo, fossi proprio io a raccontare la loro storia di Maestri del Gusto, una storia che parte dal 1894, quando Giovanni Orsolani e sua moglie Domenica diedero origine alla “Locanda Aurora“, un luogo di ristoro, ma anche di produzione del vino.
Da qui in poi, la storia della cantina è una storia di famiglia: ad oggi quattro generazioni di Orsolani si sono succedute, accrescendo le vigne e i locali produttivi rispetto ai primi anni, ma tenendo ferma la spinta all’innovazione e l’attenzione al vitigno autoctono, l’Erbaluce.
A raccontarmi di questo vino, ancora così poco conosciuto al di fuori del Piemonte, è Gian Luigi Orsolani, e mi parla di un vino di grande personalità, che deve piacere, ma che quando piace, piace davvero, e per sempre. È un vino forse non per tutti, ma per persone fidate.
Mi parla con orgoglio della sua cantina, dei suoi vini e della loro storia. Parte da quando i vini non avevano un nome, si chiamavano solo “Erbaluce” o “Barbera” o “Dolcetto”, e nulla più; poi, ad un certo punto si rese necessario battezzare i vini delle diverse cantine, non per un vezzo dei produttori, ma per distinguere una bottiglia dall’altra in un mercato ormai in espansione. E così, dal 1985, l’Erbaluce di Orsolani prese il nome di Rustìa, che in dialetto piemontese significa “arrostita”, un riferimento all’uva dorata, ovvero colpita dai raggi del sole in un vigneto sfogliato, per aumentare la componente zuccherina e donare maggiore morbidezza ad un vino altrimenti caratterizzato da una spiccata acidità.
L’utilizzo di uva più matura si percepisce bene in questo vino, più ricco quindi di precursori degli aromi: ci sono le erbe aromatiche come salvia, alloro e rosmarino, il fruttato della pera, della pesca bianca, dell’albicocca, e la scorza di agrumi quali lime, clementine e pompelmo rosa; con il passare degli anni, poi, sviluppa dei sentori sapidi e minerali, che lo rendono davvero interessante.
I primi tentativi di spumantizzazione dell’Erbaluce, in casa Orsolani, datano 1968, un’epoca in cui il panorama degli spumanti italiani era dominato da nomi come Gancia o Carpené Malvolti; in quegli anni si pongono le basi innovative per iniziare quel percorso che dalla prima bottiglia porta fino ad oggi, al “Cuvèe Tradizione”, uno spumante DOC senza aggiunta di liqueur d’expedition, un extra-brut di gran carattere.
È però il passito di Erbaluce Orsolani il prodotto per eccellenza della cantina, quello più amato e che ha ricevuto i maggiori riconoscimenti di settore, ottenendo per 10 anni i 5 grappoli dalla guida Bibenda (sommelier AIS) e i 3 bicchieri Gambero Rosso. Questo eccezionale passito deve molto alle qualità intrinseche dell’uva Erbaluce, uva dalla buccia spessa che appassisce e non ammuffisce: una “uva d’inverno” perfetta per il vino passito, vino considerato pregiato e prezioso già al tempo dei Romani, poiché non mutava in aceto.
Fino al 2000 il passito di casa Orsolani si chiamava anch’esso Rustia, per dare evidenza al carattere arrostito, dorato, delle uve; ma il medesimo nome per due vini diversi della stessa cantina ingenerava una certa confusione, così gli si diede il nome Sulé che, a dispetto del suono, nulla ha a che vedere con i raggi del sole. Il sulé in piemontese è il solaio, poiché è lì che finiscono le uve quando sono pronte per diventare passito.
La cosa incredibile di questo passito è che non si può confondere con altri, perché in questo vino si riconoscono le medesime qualità già sentite nell’Erbaluce, solo evolute nei profumi e negli aromi: i sentori aromatici di erbe si trasformano in aroma di fieno, il fruttato evolve da una parte nel miele, dall’altro nella frutta disidratata, mentre gli agrumi mutano in aroma di scorza candita.
È davvero incredibile come le caratteristiche dell’Erbaluce tornino in tutti i vini della cantina, un trait d’union che lega bottiglie diverse, figlie della stessa uva: il merito, appunto, è di quella madre comune, un vitigno estremamente tipicizzato, che permette un riconoscimento al primo assaggio, e che è allo stesso tempo un valore identitario fortissimo. L’Erbaluce è l’Erbaluce, e l’Erbaluce di Orsolani è il SUO Erbaluce, figlio di un’uva volutamente disomogenea, che permette di ottenere la denominazione di origine controllata su tre vini completamente diversi, bianco secco, spumante e passito, una condizione irrealizzabile con l’omogeneità ricercata sempre più dalle moderne pratiche agronomiche.
Fatevi un regalo: se non avete mai assaggiato un Erbaluce, provate un bicchiere di Rustìa, di spumante o di Sulé Orsolani, e non potrete rimanere indifferenti.
Se non sapete dove, vi creo anche l’occasione perfetta: durante il Salone del Gusto in San Salvario (così vi porto anche nel cuore pulsante della movida torinese)! All’interno dei locali di Via Baretti, infatti, si svilupperà l’iniziativa Enoteca Diffusa, finalizzata a valorizzare il patrimonio enologico piemontese, con particolare riferimento alla provincia di Torino, proponendo un itinerario degustativo, educativo e culturale alla scoperta delle DOCG e DOC del territorio (Erbaluce di Caluso, Canavese, Carema, Freisa di Chieri, Collina Torinese, Pinerolese e Valsusa).
All’interno dei vari locali, i vini non saranno soltanto degustati e raccontati da esperti e produttori ma diventeranno gli ingredienti principali di originali cocktails, creati sul momento da alcuni dei più quotati bartenders nella miscelazione italiani. Dopo l’epoca della miscelazione futurista degli anni ’30, infatti, i DOCG e DOC torinesi sono la prima realtà vitivinicola a rendersi disponibile a questa sperimentazione. Le etichette protagoniste di Enoteca Diffusa sono state selezionate dalla Camera di commercio di Torino nell’ambito del progetto Torino DOC, in collaborazione con l’Enoteca Regionale dei vini della Provincia di Torino.
Quindi, esattamente, cosa state aspettando?
Nel caso invece vogliate direttamente recarvi in cantina, ecco le indicazioni
Cantina Orsolani
San Giorgio Canavese (TO)
info [chiocciola] orsolani [punto] it
http://www.orsolani.it
Vendita presso la Cantina : dal Lunedi al Venerdi 9,00 -12,00 / 15,00 -18,00
Sabato 9,00-13,00 / 15,00 -18,00
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