Il mio MTC 69 – La cucina alcolica

Lo so, lo so, lo avevate previsto che la mia sfida sarebbe stata all’insegna del gomito alzato.

Che mi piaccia cucinare e mangiare lo avrete capito dal fatto che ho un blog di cucina (vi vedo perspicaci, ragazzi miei), ma è altrettanto vero che mi piaccia bere. E non senza criterio, come i ragazzini che vanno a “spaccarsi” di amari, perché costano meno e sono più alcolici (pare che sia una delle mode del momento), ma imparando a bere meno e meglio. Poi non mi nascondo dietro al dito (vabbè, facciamo al bicchiere), io non disdegno nulla: amo la birra (quelle dai due malti in su, grazie), un buon vino, i liquori (specialmente quelli fatti in casa), ma per me il must è l’aperitivo. E aperitivo, come ormai ben saprete, per me ha solo un sinonimo: Negroni.

Sono partita da lui, dal mio amato Conte, per sviscerare la mia sfida, ed l’argomento si è palesato: la mia sfida è quella sulla cucina alcolica.

Una sfida che parla di cocktail, di destrutturazione e di cibo.

Il regolamento sul sito dell’MTC spiega in maniera esaustiva la follia che sta dietro questa frase, ma ho pensato che due esempi pratici di quella che di là chiamiamo “destrutturazione eretica” (ce n’è anche una pura, per i coraggiosi all’ascolto) potessero chiarire quello che è il cuore di questa sfida.

Bando alle ciance, e partiamo con la spiega della sfida sulla

CUCINA ALCOLICA

La destrutturazione ortodossa

Per quanto riguarda la destrutturazione ortodossa, non vi faccio esempi, perché è più semplice da spiegare (ed è uno di quei casi in cui è decisamente più facile a dirsi che a farsi): tutte le componenti del cocktail che sceglierete devono essere scomposte e quindi ricomposte tali quali, ma mutate di forma in un altro piatto, senza aggiunte di sorta. Tecnicamente molto più difficile, perché per poterlo fare dovete reinterpretare ogni singolo elemento. Il paragone illustre è l’Americano solido di Cedroni, ma ci sono molti esempi in materia. Non vi cito esempi di quel che potreste fare, perché oggi ne abbiamo sviscerati alcuni, e ci sono delle figate senza senso, che io mi auguro di vedere.

Mi concentro di più sulla parte di vera cucina alcolica, perché è quella dove gli esempi vi aiuteranno a capire meglio cosa si intende.

La destrutturazione eretica (o eterodossa, se vogliamo esser buoni)

Qui il discorso cambia leggermente, perché lo scopo è sempre destrutturare il coktail nelle sue singole componenti, per poi usare quelle nella creazione di un piatto (che può essere anche la rielaborazione di un piatto della tradizione), avendo cura di non aggiungere troppi ingredienti e sofisticazioni, prché lo scopo è quello di tenere al centro il cocktail, il cui sapore bisogna poter riconoscere all’assaggio del piatto.

Ne è un esempio il patè di maiale in gelatina di Negroni che trovate qui sotto: all’assaggio il Negroni si riconosce e, anzi, caratterizza la preparazione. Nel caso di questa gelatina, ho mantenuto intatte le proporzioni di un vero Negroni, e ne ho mantenute anche tutte le parti alcoliche.

Se scegliete la destrutturazione eretica e scegliete di partenza un cocktail formato da 2 o più parti alcoliche, c’è una deroga: tenendo fermo che nella proposta finale è obbligatoria almeno una parte alcolica, non dovete usare per forza tutte le parti alcoliche, ma alcune di esse possono essere “sublimate” con componenti ancora più basiche, come gli ingredienti che si usano per creare quei liquori. Vi faccio l’esempio del mio pollo fritto al Negroni, che casca a fagiolo. Il Negroni è sempre vermouth rosso, bitter e gin, ma io non ho usato tutti e tre gli alcolici: ho usato il vermouth in marinatura insieme ad un infuso di bacche di ginepro (base primaria del gin) e ho affumicato il pollo con delle erbe bitter (base, appunto del bitter). Una ricetta del genere andrebbe bene per partecipare alla sfida, tanto per capirci.

Ne è un ulteriore esempio il bonet bianco con caramello allo scotch che trovate più in basso e che rielabora il Godfather (cocktail composto da 1/2 scotch e 1/2 amaretto di Saronno): l’amaretto sembra predominare il dolce perché è presente sotto forma di liquore e di amaretti sbriciolati nel bonet, pertanto ho deciso di usare lo scotch nel caramello sia prima che dopo la cottura, per riequilibrare le percentuali. Infatti, vi chiedo di scrivere il coktail scelto per la riceta ele sue dosi, per valutare anche se l’equilibrio del cocktail è rispecchiato dal piatto che creerete (è un valore non scientifico, ma se c’è uno spruzzo di limone nel cocktail e si trasforma in una mousse al limone, qualcosa non va).

Spero che tutto questo scrivere non vi abbia ucciso e che abbiate trovato fra qui e il regolamento la chiarezza che abbiamo cercato di portare.. ma tanto lo so che mi ammazzerete, fra gruppo e filo diretto 😀

Buona sfida a tutti.. ed ecco i miei esempi pratici!

Patè di maiale con gelatina al Negroni

Ingredienti per il patè:

  • 250 g di polpa di maiale macinata
  • 1 piccola carota
  • 1 pezzo di gambo di sedano
  • 1 piccola cipolla
  • 80 g di burro
  • olio extra-vergine
  • sale
  • pepe

Procedimento:

  1. Tritate grossolanamente le verdure; fate scaldare un filo d’olio in una padella e fate insaporire il trito di verdure. Dopo qualche minuto, unite la polpa di maiale e cuocete per circa 20 minuti a fiamma media. Salate e pepate.
  2. Lasciate raffreddare, quindi versate la carne nel frullatore e sminuzzate (io ho scelto di lasciare una consistenza non troppo vellutata, ma potete scegliere voi la consistenza che preferite).
  3. Unite il burro morbido e frullate ancora.
  4. Mettete il patè nel contenitore che userete per servirlo, badando di lasciare almeno 3-4mm liberi dal bordo, perché dovrete poi aggiungere la gelatina.

Ingredienti per la gelatina al Negroni:

  • 25 ml di vermouth rosso
  • 25 ml di gin
  • 25 ml di bitter
  • 25 ml di acqua
  • 4 g di colla di pesce

Procedimento:

  1. Preparate un Negroni con vermuth, bitter e gin.
  2. Ammollate la colla di pesce in acqua fredda per 10 minuti, quindi fatela sciogliere in 25 ml di acqua bollente, in una piccola terrina (che dovrà poi contenere anche il Negroni).
  3. Lasciate intiepidire e aggiungete il Negroni nella terrina, a poco a poco, mescolando con una frusta. Questo procedimento serve per evitare lo choc termico e la conseguente formazione di grumi.
  4. Prendete il contenitore dove avete messo il patè e versatevi la futura gelatina al Negroni sopra.
  5. Mettete in frigorifero per almeno 2-3 h prima di servire.

Bonet bianco con caramello allo scotch

Ingredienti (per 6-8 persone)

  • 150 g di zucchero per il caramello
  • 2 cucchiai di scotch
  • qualche goccia di limone
  • 6 uova
  • 70 g di zucchero
  • 500 ml di latte fresco intero
  • 100 g di amaretti tritati finemente
  • 2 cucchiai di liquore all’amaretto

Opzionali:

  • 2 cucchiai di scotch
  • amaretti per decorare

Procedimento:

  1. Per prima cosa preparate il caramello: mettete lo zucchero insieme a due cucchiai di acqua e ad un goccio di limone in un pentolino a fondo spesso e lasciate sul fuoco basso, senza mai girare -al massimo ruotate il pentolino, fino ad ottenere il caramello del colore che preferite.
    Rivestite con il caramello il fondo e le pareti dello stampo (uno da plumcake è perfetto), facendo attenzione a non scottarvi. Lasciate da parte.
  2. In una terrina, sbattete con le fruste a mano uova e zucchero, fino ad incorporare bene quest’ultimo, ma cercando di incorporare meno aria possibile.
  3. Pre-riscaldate il forno a 180°C.
  4. Aggiungete quindi al composto il latte, continuando a mescolare con la frusta, e infine la polvere di amaretto e il liquore.
  5. Versate il composto nello stampo precedentemente rivestito di caramello, quindi mettete lo stampo in una teglia più grande e versate acqua calda fino ad arrivare ad almeno metà dello stampo del bonet; avete preparato il bagno maria che servirà per la cottura.
  6. Infornate in forno già caldo per circa 40-45 minuti (fate la prova stecchino per valutare la cottura).
  7. Sfornate, eliminate l’acqua del bagno maria, quindi lasciate raffreddare prima di capovolgere il dolce sul piatto da portata (capiente, perché dovrà contenere anche il caramello).
  8. Una volta girato il bonet sul piatto, ho raccolto buona parte del caramello (che con la cottura diventa molto liquido) in una tazza (semplicemente inclinando il piatto) e ho aggiunto altri 2 cucchiai di scotch, mescolando. Una volta tagliate e servite le fette, ho guarnito con il caramello allo scotch.

 

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